motocyclepartstx

i am new to planes well building i can fly them barely,but what i want to do is convert a c,l plane to r/c.model was desighned for .049. have a .09 to use but would like it to be 4channel.maybe electric powerd.i have not started building this plane so i could modify it during ass. any suggestions are welcome,this is also my first build.thanks

SGC

Which C/L model are you talking about ???? some make good R/C converstions but also some are unsuitable. Also takeing into account this is your first build and your novice statement, I would recoment putting this kit/plan away till later and building a recognised R/C model more suited to your building and flying skills. Starting out with an unknown model will surely lead to disapointment for you, Im sure someone can find a plan to suit your motor/s on hand . What brand/model motors do you have ? flying experiance ?
Stewart

dieFluggeister

Do you have a C/L plane in particular that you want to build? If you let us know then we might be able to have some helpful input. Otherwise if you just want to build "a plane" then there are any number of free plans out there to chose from that would be great first build planes that don't involve all the problems of a conversion. I think most of these guys would say to wait for a C/L conversion project for #2, or later because it is just frought with problems. But if you need help, we're willing to try.

motocyclepartstx

i have 2 control line planes one is a corsair and the other is a sopwith 1f.1 camel ,the camel is the one i want to use. both planes are guillows kits.i am currently building a fokker d-7 that was produced in 1971.i love the biplanes. i currently fly a twist 3d 40 sized plane,and a couple others that are not put together.i welcome all ideas as i think this will be a neat plane.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

To convert a C/L plane to R/C, mount a servo on your control handle and attach the flying lines to the servos' arm, then have a friend work the elevator stick on the Tx while you spin around in circles trying to keep up with what he wants the plane to do.

BMatthews

MCparts, both those models are far too small to use an 09 in. And both require a heap of modifications where the knowledge of how to do the mods only comes with some experience on other projects. Things like the wing spars and wing struts are far too weak if built as per the kit plans. They may show an 049 for CL conversion but trust me, this is largely wishful thinking unless you are VERY good at control line flying and can land them light as a feather each time. Years ago I modfied a Guillows kit for control line and beefed up the nose area. But the cabin area was still way too weak. I got one flight that landed very light and on the second flight the wings ripped right off the cabin structure and the model wrote itself off. And this was all with relatively light line tension too!

You may have some luck later on with a small and light electric conversion but if these are the little 18 inch span kits then even that will require some serious mods to lighten the model and to fly it without it flicking out into a nasty and crashing.

Now if you were to run those plans through an enlarging photo copier and bump them up to 34 to 38 inch span and all the parts with it and built that size then you'd have a winner. Along with this enlargement you'll want to do some modifying on wood sizes and definetly beef up the nose area unless you go electric but at least the size would let it fly well.

motocyclepartstx

well my top wing is 28 inches, and if i need to cut new parts thats easy i have a laser cutter,can scan my plans and cut them from thicker wood. but would that be needed for electric power,at 28 inches ,i have seen a little smaller fly well.and i dont want to use control line flight.i want it to be a 4 channel rc plane like my twist.

Wayne C

If your good with wood and don't mind makin parts, go for it. Sometimes the problem is not the thickness of the wood but the quality. Only replace the parts that need replacing. This is where experience comes in. You get experience by trying things. Think the project through considering your intended use. Some times internal design geometry needs to be adapted to your purpose, ie. thicker spars, beefier conection of wing to fuse, that sort of thing. If your plane comes out great the first time, power to ya. If not, you get a lot of experience and knowledge rebuilding. Next time someone says to wait till you have more experience before trying a particular project ask them how they know--often its because of a string of failures and do overs. Be careful, be smart. No one wants to be hit by a running .09 that just broke loose from an insubstantial airframe.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

Hows my new bestest buddy doing today?!!

..Rog

motocyclepartstx

i dont mind trying things,even if they turn out bad,coming from some one who learned to fly with no help from any one and no time on simulators. went thru alot of planes.alot of time putting them back together just to see them crash moments after take off.so time and rethinking,and trying something new are not a problem.thats why i have bought most of the cheap planes i run across.the laser realy saves time when rebuilding a crashed plane.as far as qaulity of parts,maybe go with maple for spars instead of the light balsa.greatly welcome every ones input. would realy like to see this plane fly without string.

chevy43

I've got a 4 chanel 18" Guillows mustang I'm almost done with.

If you look up Guillows conversions on the other site you will find tons of succesfull ones.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Bipes don't need to have as much strength built into each wing as a monoplane. On a 2 foot span bipe, there probably isn't going to be much more than 10 inches of unsupported span. If the weight of a model in this size range is kept to less than a pound, typical wing construction with all balsa members is all you'll need. Choose firm balsa for the main spars and leading edges. Maple is a good choice for engine mount beams, but way too heavy for 1/2A sized spars. Spruce or Fir is a good choice for spar material on planes that need the species of wood with the best ratio of strength to weight, but for a model this size, [especially a bipe] the best investment of extra wood will be at the strut attachment points and the forward end of the fuselage.It isn't easy to stack enough weight into the front end of a 1/2A powered WWI bipe to get it to balance, so I would lengthen the nose a little instead of being forced into adding lead later. An .09 might have enough built in ballast to balance out one of these kits without lengthening the nose.

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

This is going a bit farther than a conversion. This one was re-designed from the ground up for r/c. It is, however, based on a classic c/l design.