chad500_0

All,

After all the Cox and Norvell discussions, I just picked up a Thunder Tiger GP 07. Nice look'n engine and I have a few questions so I can keep it that way.

1. There seems to be a built in firewall mount. Three screws is all that is needed. Now, can I mount the engine DIRECTLY to the fire wall or do I use the 1/8!QUOT! plactic spacer? Both are ok, but I thought I would ask.

2. Do I use the norvell method of breaking in? Or is there a preferred other way?

I am building a Simple Series P-51 at the moment and I wanted to get an engine that I can find glow plugs and other parts. It seems to be a good fit for the plane.

Thank you,

chad500_0

cap10b

Chad,
I used the beam mount and the radial mount on both my GP 07 set ups, one was in a Ace Whizard with a custom wing set up, the other was an Ace Scooter that was a polyhedral motor glider ( the scooter shows a cox motor in the pic I replaced it with the GP07) The motor ran a 6x3 Graupner propeller at around 17.5k with good transition and full power to ROG out of wet grass.
As far as the Norvel Break in method I have no idea what that is, I just ran some Sig 1/2A fuel (25% castor synthetic blend) and a KB-RC plug. Ran two tanks on the ground enought to get an idle and transition then let her rip. ROG on the maiden flight.

Good little motor worth the money.

JDS

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

I used the back plate mount, works great. The engine doesn't have the power of a Big Mig, bu it's the best handling little motor I ever had, it handles like it's a forty. I had mine in a PT Gyro.

johnvb-RCU

My Feedback: (1)

I had mine in a Boddington Zero Seven, mounted on the spacer on the firewall. I ran mine with a 7*3. Run it in like any ABC glow engine. Only use thin bore fuel tube, it won't run well with normal size tube. Watch that the fuel tube doesn't get blocked, it doesn't take much and you will get a lean run and possibly a cooked engine, don't ask how I know It's a great little engine, it's best attributes are the handling and the quietness. I've bought a second one before they get banned

soarrich

My Feedback: (98)

That's really cute, and the motor and wings match.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

I mounted mine with the backplate also. Do use the small tubing also. Ran best with MA6x3, it did not like the APC's I tried. Easy to tune, good idle and transition and quiet as well. Had it in an 18oz Simple 400. Limited verticle, but flew well on the wing.
MikeB

SquirlNutZipper

My Feedback: (9)

The TT-07's break-in, transition and throttle like the larger Thunder Tiger/OS engines. Smaller adjustments are necessary but that is due to the tighter tolerances of a smaller cc engine.

Grab yourself a handfull of glow pugs that work well in your area, run her rich for two, three or four tanks with complete cooldowns between and the piston at lowest bottom and you're set to go. Loosen the Glow Plug during cool downs. All my 07's came with smaller diameter fuel tubing in the box.

Don't forget to keep her slightly rich on the ground as she'll unload and lean out in the air.

A 7x3 prop is the largest I'd ever go on the motor and hope to still fly well.

SquirlNutZipper

My Feedback: (9)

Forgot to mention...

Keep the carb area clean as a surgical unit!

chad500_0

I mounted the TT 07 in my Simple Series P-51. I used the flange сases with the 3 bolts and the plastic spacer. I will begin breaking in the engine once my LHS re-opens so I can get some fuel. I am starting my Simple Series ME 109 next week. Once I see how the engine runs, I will get another for the ME 109.

Thanks for the advice.

chad500_0

eroc144

My Feedback: (1)

Chad - Nice looking Mustang! The Ace Simple Series are fun planes to build and fly, although they can build heavy if you're not careful. What kind of finish did you use?

EG

gcb

Chad,

The TT is an ABC engine and should be broken in as such. Only the NORVEL engines need the "NORVEL" break-in. That is because of the AAO (high silicon aluminum piston and aluminum oxide anodized cylinder) setup.

For most of the ABC setups that type of break-in is detrimental. For an ABC you should get the engine running in a slightly rich setting ASAP after starting. This will get the engine up to proper operating temp which will cause the cylinder to expand and put less stress on the rotating parts. The bearings will wear-in properly within a couple of minutes. After that, you can use your throttle and run it at low speeds. Some, especially sport, ABC setups have less taper to the cylinder so "proper" break-in is not necessary. When I say ABC, that includes ABN, etc.

I do not have a TT .07 but instructions for my GP series TT's say to run it rich first. This may be to float any manufacturing junk out of the engine. It further says to alternate between rich and lean (each for 1-2 minutes) for two tanks, then fly.

My own preference is to take the backplate off first thing and look for any chips or filings, then flush out any compounds, etc. First run is fast, but on the rich side of peak. Your choice.

Good luck with your TT. Sorry for the windy reply, but you asked. [8D]

George

chad500_0

George,

Thank you, I hope to break in the engine this weekend.

chad

eroc144,

I used a Chrome iron on film - multi temp - can't remeber the exact name at the moment. It was on sale for $6 a roll. It was actually pretty easy to work with once I devoted the time into covering.

chad