digital_trucker

Well, I finally have my shop set up enough to actually do something productive in it! Got all my benches and tables built, plus a couple of MDF/cork building boards made. As promised here is the build thread for the Aerosphere (nee Airtronics) Q-Tee. My model of choice for re-educating my dumb thumbs after almost a decade's hiatus. First off, the kit was packaged very well, with the exception of my usual gripe (which is plans rolled print-side-out). I was surprised to find a lot of empty space in the box - not a whole lot of wood to this thing! The laser cutting is excellent and the plans are very clearly printed. So far, I have the tailfeathers built, and am working on the wing.

digital_trucker

Sure feels good to stick balsa together again. I did find a minor error in the manual, though. It refers to 'making sure rib #2 butts against the bottom sheeting'. It's actually the second set of #1 ribs. Not terribly difficult to figure out (they can't go any other way anyhow).

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Great project, d_t. Keep us up to date with lots of photos.

chevy43

I've got the wing and tail done on mine..... I built my wing flat and set it up for ailerons. I have had the kit since about '77. I guess 30 years is about how long it takes to build

I do still have the Cox Swana radio for a vintage version.......

I look forward to seing more of your progress!

Treven.

digital_trucker

...and the wing. Not much to it, is there?

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Wow, that looks like a pretty thorough manual! That's good. This would be a great kit for introducing people to the more rewarding half of the hobby (not that moving your thumbs isn't rewarding, too).

I can already see your plane floating in for a gentle deadstick landing after running out the tank. Looks great.

chevy43

I wanted rounded wing tips so I took the wing tip block and layed it down but not quite flat to give a little tip diheadral (sp?). I just thought that might look a litte better.... I also used a spruce leading edge because I hate having a little branch or stiff weed denting or cutting my leading edge.

I think I will mount my landing gear all on the outside so that it can be repaired easier. I don't see how you can work on the landing gear very easily with it all up inside the fuse.

digital_trucker

This kit has a spruce leading edge. I thought about getting some triangle stock to make more 'roundy' wingtips, but I decided to go stock. I'm thinking I'll go with a dural gear also. Wire seems to go all bendy after a while.

hogflyer

Here's a landing gear tip I learned the hard way. The 3/32" landing gear is more that ample for the Q-Tee. I've never had one bend - even in a crash. The weak point is the bulkhead that it is wired to. What I've found works to fix this is make up a plywood doubler the same thickness as the bulkhead it's supposed to be wired to. Also add some 3/32" plywood fillers both on top of and below the gear so the doubler has a solid surface to be bonded to. I drilled and wired through all the plywood, and epoxied it all together. Have never had one fail with this method.

Hogflyer

digital_trucker

Well, got the wing cut apart and stuck back together. I decided to just stick with the wire gear, although I added more wire than came with the kit. The fuse build is the tradition 'left-atop-right'...DON"T MAKE TWO RIGHTS! Found another slight error - this time in the plans. The reinforcing strip that goes along the top of the side sheets is s'posed to be in 4 pieces to fit between the formers. Both the plans and the instructions show and call for only 3 pieces, When you look at the last former though, it's not notched for that strip. Another thing not terribly difficult to finger out. I already made an oopsie building the fuse, but I ain't gonna say what it is (no, I didn't make an extra right side....or left).

chevy43

Wow you are going fast! Well it looks like it is too late now but it has been recomended to put the cabanes ( or whatever they are called ) in after covering which makes covering easier. That was kind of my thinking on mounting the landing gear from the outside too.

[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=481564&highlight=Q+TEE]Long Q-tee thread here![/link]

build light

Very nice!!

Robert

hkbii

Howdie gents just thought I"d throw in my two cents worth. I like to bend my own gear.I use the two wire method. then mount them with nylon bolts.The bolts will sher just befor the mounting blocks tears loos from the fuse. The point that you attechethe brace will determine the dapening. the closer to the fuse, the softer the gear.

hkbii

oops wrong pic. If you like to shoot touch and goes this gear will hold up nice. hkbii.

digital_trucker

Well, I mocked it together to see how it's looking. I'm pretty happy with it so far, but I can already see I'll be adding nose weight to get her to balance.

theradioflyer

I have some of the best memories from a Q-Tee. My Dad and I used to fly one in a field near our house. This plane pretty much kicked off my 17 year hobby addiction. The Q-Tee is a fun little plane!

Happy Landings

Jay

hogflyer

DT,

What are the supplying for the spars? The Airtronics versions I used to build had spruce for the spars.

Hogflyer

digital_trucker

1/8" x 1/2" spruce spar

tobytorkn

My Feedback: (1)

this brings back good memories. this was one of my first planes as well. all i had was an os 10 and a 2 channel tower hobbies radio (elevator on left, rudder on right). set the throttle a little above half using a threaded rod and taught myself how to fly. after many rebuilds i figured it out and could take off, do touch & go's, and land without breaking anything. the plane finally came to rest on the wall hanging up. toby....

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

I built one of these years ago, so did a friend. Both came out tail heavy. I took either a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" thick oak and made a forward spacer that blended with the lines of the plane. This is the plane that introduced me to 1/2A RC combat.

digital_trucker

Well, did some covering. I'm not completely happy with it, but considering it's the first I've done in years...it'll do. It's looking like I'll have to stretch the nose somehow or other or I'll wind up having to add a fair amount of lead to it. I'm thinking of making a ply box sub-firewall to extend it.

chevy43

Could you just make your wing mounts a little longer and slide your wing back?

That looks like a Wasp up front. I have only run mine on the bench. Despite the general advice about using a smaller prop I felt I got my best results from a MAS 7x3 which it turned at 13,800 rpm which is over 20 oz of thrust. It is nice and quiete and will run something like 20 to 30 min. on a 2 oz tank.


How did you end up reinforcing the landing gear?

I sure look forward to your next post. Please give us the weights too.

Treven.

digital_trucker

Moving the wing back would actually be trickier than extending the nose, I think. A new set of rear cabanes set further back would cause much grief in covering. I plan to just amputate the stock firewall I have and extend the nose from there, I don't have the top nose sheeting on yet so it should be a snap. I plan to build in some right thrust as well instead of shimming the engine with washers per the plans. One thing I don't plan to do is round off the cabane uprights. Not only do the plans not call for that, I figure any reduction of material will just weaken them - and they already seem like they'd be the weak point in the system. Hmm, I could glass them, I suppose.

Another mod I plan to do is make a hatch to cover the open bay between the cabanes. Having a gaping hole in the fuse and directly exposing stuff to the elements doesn't seem like such a hot idear to me. I can't imagine how the original design avoided fuel soaking with the stock design.

Also, if you notice, the engine is mounted sidewinder instead of upright. Since I need an internal tank, that puts the carb on the centerline of the tank. Mounted upright like a reedie per the plans would place the carb a long ways above the tank. I might as well cowl in the engine while I'm at it...not that streamlining will make much of a difference, but it'll look sleeker with a neater cowl and a spinner. I suppose cheek cowls might be going a little overboard

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Good call on adding a section to each fuselage side to move the engine forward. I do not see the need for any right thrust, though......unless you plan on putting a .90 on it with a 14x6 prop. I've never seen any small plane [that was built straight] demonstrate the need .

hogflyer

My Q-Tee's had no problem with balance. I always used a QRC or BW or similar up front, the battery in the nose followed by the receiver and the servo's at the rear of the radio compartment. Never did have to add lead to any of them. You may want to try putting a flat pack under the fuel tank and see if that doesn't help. Also don't mount the radio until it's fully covered with the fuel tank placed in the nose. Then position the radio components to get the best balance possible.

Hogflyer