500 lb. koolaid man

I'll try the heat gun later today on high, I would have never thought of using heat for this. The heat gun should be strong enough, It broke free a piston liner out of an old(vintage) Fuji .35(my neighbor gave me this control line engine) a while ago. By the way, some of you guys really crack me up.[sm=lol.gif] Thanks for all the help guys, it's all very appreciated.

Luna_Rendezvous

After you heat the cylinder try squirting a few drops of fuel on the head only, this will slightly shrink the head while the cylinder will still be expanded from the heat.

500 lb. koolaid man

Heat gun+pliers&Cox wrench=nothing.[] What the heck. I even tried nitro on the head after that, reheating it first. Maybe I'll try a torch later, but I don't have much experience with them(It'll still be safe, just a challenge). And I had a hard time holding it do to the heat, even with oven mittens on. It' so darn small and hot. However, with the cox wrench and pliers on the head, I got good grip, it's just, well...

[sm=idea.gif]That gorilla hired by Cox engines must have been HUGE!

I scraped up the head even more[:@] for nothing. Any other suggestions? Or am I SOL.

Thanks.

gcb

Perhaps I missed something, but do you NEED to get the head off? If not, just run it as-is until you NEED to remove it.

I read where you refer to "wrench". You would do a lot better by borrowing an additional wrench and trying to remove the plug with two wrenches. The thing with the slots on top of the cylinder was so you could exert appropriate pressure without distorting the cylinder.

I'll bet that big a** gorilla would use two wrenches!

You might try to insert some liquid wrench or a penetrating oil around the cylinder/glow plug threads. Remember the seal is at the bottom of the threads.

BTW, we've all probably run across "one of those" fits in our experiences. Good luck.

George

500 lb. koolaid man

I have two identical cox wrenches actually, given to me by my neighbor. I tried both at once, even with the two parts heated, and still couldn't get the plug off. I'm starting to think that the gorilla grew even more before he got to putting the glow head on my engine, maybe others are a "little bit" looser than mine. And I guess I'll stop fooling with it for now, I just wanted to loosen the plug because that would save me time in the future, but I (almost)give up. By the time I finish there till be no cooling fins left on the plug.

BTW, I doubt the gorilla used 2 cox wrenches, He probably used a couple of lock pliers, or at least he did for my engine. What a prankster.[sm=angry_smile.gif]

Well, thanks for the help George. I'll soak the threads in liquid wrench for a few hours and see if that helps.

burtcs

500 lb'er:

Since COX engines disassemble themselve in the air, it may that head glow head will loosen by it's self. I suspect your problem is the heat gun and the fact that you don't have a vice to hold the motor in while your heating the cylinder. The point to this is rapid heating of the cylinder expands it a the head come loose. The heat gun heats up the cylinder and head. This causes equal expansion and the head doesn't move.

They may also have used a thread locker (think locktite here) on the threads. all the more reason to use a torch to heat the cylinder. Any way good luck (your having fun of course...)

If you do have a vise, use that as a holding fixture. Take the backplate off the engine and the prop screw. Place the back of the crankcase against one jaw, the drive washer against the other. The you can concentrate on the head (an eventually) the cylinder). Your just trying to hang-on to this thing, not squash it.


regards - Steve B.

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

A heat gun is to loosen castor oil related jams, not this. You need a propane torch.

unclecrash

Torch like I said above just don't over heat the aluminum or you will have a really messed up head. Worked fine for me and Ill admit it took so much pressure that the cox wrench actually hurt my hand. George mine was so tight. even using 2 cox wrenches distorted the head real bad. I had to do like CP said Pliers but I went the extra mile and used a torch and it was still a super human gorilla that reefed it on

gcb

Ever heard the advice. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"? It sure seems to fit here.

As pointed out above, it may loosen up a bit with running (heat cycles). You may get two years running out of that plug.

I know, I know, it's the challenge. I'd probably mess with it too!

George

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Hmmm, if you really ARE the 500 pound Koolaid Man, why do you need our help, anyway?
Maybe Cox found out that we were just buying the $7 engine so we could get at the $9 glowhead?

gabe200

My Feedback: (21)

i use heads from rjl my sure starts run great no power loss compared to the stock head i have yett to see any real data on the galgreath head and nelson plug i like to get one just to try will see

500 lb. koolaid man

I plan on running the engine tomorrow morning since I managed to squeeze in enough time today to make a testing mount for it.

I have two questions:

I have always killed my babe bee by throwing a rag at the prop. I have no problem with this, but is there a more recommended way of killing it?

Is there a break in procedure that I should follow? Like run a 1/2 oz. of fuel through it first before I start tuning?

Thanks for the help.

build light

For a Babe Bee the rag is the best way since there is not much else you can do short of closing off the fuel by closing the needle valve.

Even so the rag should be just fine as it is quick and simple and does not require resetting the needle valve.

The sure Start on the other hand has a fuel line you can pinch.

Robert

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

That's a long way for the fuel to draw... How about drilling a hole to give the line a short cut?

unclecrash

500LB your stand is a bit over kill! here is what I use just a small board with another with 2 screws holding it for the tank to sit on. Rubber band the tank and clamp it in a vise or c clamp it to a bench. Like skaliwag said it is a bit of a distance for the fuel to flow. Turn the tank around and drill a hole trough the board to shorten it up.

500 lb. koolaid man

I'll turn the tank around and drill a hole trough the board, then shorten the line before I run it tomorrow. Thanks for the tip guys.

"Rubber band the tank and clamp it in a vise or c clamp it to a bench." My mount requires no vice, and all I did other than yours is screwed another board to it creating a "T shape" to allow for the stand to not fall over.

I still need a little info on break in[]

Thanks for the help and keep it coming.

500 lb. koolaid man

I shortened the fuel line, turned the tank around and drilled a hole in the wood.

I couldn't even get it to fire up, no clue why[]???

My babe bee glow head igniter doesn't fit the sure start[:@] so I grabbed my AA battery holder(with wires) attached a small clip to the red end, then used that on the part of the glow plug that sticks up. I believe it did light up the head because the head was warm. I bet you I turned that prop 25 times and not one pop. I made sure that the line had fuel in it too, and it did. I also tried to choke the engine by putting my finger over the choking hole while spinning the prop. I thought it would fire rite up, but nothing worked. Any tips? Thanks.

edit: Dumb me. The fuel line wasn't actually connected to the engine. It was wedged next to where it should be. New problem: It runs for a few seconds then stops, every time. Tuning, choking, what? What's causing this?
It goes high rpm, idle, stall.

500 lb. koolaid man

Why no help all of the sudden?[] Third post in a row.

[&o]I've been trying to start it off and on all day today, probably a good 2 or 3 hours... well... wasted. It still won't keep running.[&o] I'm close to 1/2 oz. of fuel gone without it even running for more than a few seconds at a time, witch happens only every here and there. I've been moving around the adjustment needle within a 1/2 turn counter-clockwise. It'll run high rpm for a few seconds, quit, then I try to start it up again and it runs for about 1 second at a little lower rpm, then I try to fire it up again, it runs for about a second at a little less rpm then the last time and quits, then same thing until it's back to no pops(3 or 4 tries).

Any advice would be REALLY appreciated. Thanks.

SGC

Ok, try closeing the needle valve then opening 2 1/2- 3 turns , it should run but be a tad rich, if it still wont keep running then you most likely have a blocked fuel passage in the needle jet( these small engines require clean fuel and fuel equipement) , if you have a syring/fuel bulb , remove the needle useing a peice of fuel hose on the syring squirt fuel through the needle opening to flush out the jet- note remove fuel line to tank or you'll just recycle the dirt/swarf whatever.
Stewart
Oh that AA battery isnt going to light a cox plug for long, a "D" or preferably a pair of "D's" in parralel would be better , cox's like the plug bright orange for a good easy start.

500 lb. koolaid man

Thanks for the advice SGC! I finally got it running. It was luck though. I didn't read your post in time but I will use that advice in the future. I believe the needle valve on my engine is opened only 1 or 2 turns from closed since that's how it came from the factory, I checked to see where it was when I got it to make sure I wouldn't start to adjust it then forget where flush is. It ran well, I only ran it for a few minutes since I didn't want to irritate neighbors, I got it fine tuned and still see a lot of smoke. So I guess it's time to start on my exhaust throttle now that I know it runs.

gittarpikk

Oh man,,,that brought back memories...:-)
I had some of all those descript... enyas, os maxes, as well as the throttle sleeve babe bees. I think I still have some throttle sleeve teedees and a couple blue head mcCoys with butterflies on the exhaust (I may be mistaken on this)

gittarpikk

Oh man,,,that brought back memories...:-)
I had some of all those descript... enyas, os maxes, as well as the throttle sleeve babe bees. I think I still have some throttle sleeve teedees and a couple blue head mcCoys with butterflies on the exhaust (I may be mistaken on this)

gcb

In addition to a larger battery, you may want to get a Cox type glow plug clip. I fought with alligator clips A LOT when I started in the fifties (year, not age).

You may want to move the tank higher so that the top is at engine intake level (bottom of choke tube). This will require less fuel draw, yet not flood the engine. You should have the tank as close as you can to the engine.

Although it does not apply now, you should make the first run with a smallish prop (to lighten the load), and run the first run a bit rich. This will flush out any junk that accumulated from assembly that you did not get out by flushing out the engine before running it.

Next run start rich, then peak it out for about half a minute, then back to rich. Do that for several minutes, then try it at peak. If it does not slow down, it is broken-in. If during a peak time, it starts to slow down (sag), richen it for awhile.

Steel pistons do not need heat cycle break-in like iron pistons.

George

500 lb. koolaid man

It's a little late for that, I ran it yesterday with a 6X3 for a few minutes while trying to fine tune it.

Would it be worth it to do what you said starting the next time I run? Or would it do no good since I've run it already?

Thanks.

gcb

The first part..yes, the running...no.

Just keep it in mind for your next engine.

George