proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Do all the TD .020 glow heads have the knurling or ridges, (whatever ya wanna call 'em ) around the center post? (like the TD .049's )

I just got what's supposed to be a TD head, but the top of it is plain, just like the heads on my Pee Wee's...

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

The part #s (1032) for a TD and Pee Wee head has been the same for a long.. Long time. There may be no diference. Just older heads with the Knurled-ness.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Knurled-ness..

Thanks,

The TD .020 I have is an early one, and has the original head w/ knurlings...so I guess the one I just got sans knurling is o.k. then?

skaliwag

My Feedback: (1)

Take a look at the combustion chamber on both the one with and without the knurlings.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Yeah...that's what I was thinking...but I don't have an .020 wrench yet. I used pliers (yeah, I know[:'(]) to try and get the old burnt out one off, but the whole cylinder and head unscrewed, and it's difficult to tell.

Any way of holding the cylinder safely while removing the head when you don't have the wrench(es )?

Silvaire

My Feedback: (50)

I remember this subject coming up some time ago. From what I recall, all TD's had knurled heads, but Pee Wee's had either plain or knurled heads for no particular rhyme or reason.

Arlen

Regarding head removal:
These Cox .020 cylinders are rather tender. I don't know if the newer ones have flats on the top of the cylinder, but the old ones don't. The Cox wrench fits across the exhaust ports. You can EASILY burr or distort the cylinder by just reefing on it with the Cox wrenches. The Cox recommended method actually works pretty well for removal. You heat the cylinder and head up to approximate operating temperature, drip a few drops of fuel on the head (NOT on the cylinder though) to cool it, and then the head will turn off with the wrenches fairly easily.

jessiej

A search on RCU will show photos, but basically just drill a hole very slightly larger than the cylinder in a board , saw a slot through the hole, insert cylinder in the hole, clamp in a vise and go from there.

jess

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks guys...
I know all about the possable burring of the E. ports...I discovered that rather painfully with an .049 many moons ago. (that's why I asked )

Gonna try the block 'o wood with a hole and slot method...that looks like a winner.
I have used a propane torch with a very low flame to warm the upper cyl. and soften the varnish.
We'll get that baby offa there...[8D]

Yuu

I think maybe the block of wood 'tool' would crush or flatten the cylinder. Dickeybird showed a way to file 'flats' on the top fin, like some of the .049 cylinders, then make a thin wrench to fit those flats, and still get between the plug and the next fin down [the fin below the fin with the 'flats'.]

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

I'm thinking of a piece of 1 x 3 soft pine...maybe screw the cyl. back on the case and bring the piston up to TDC? Just enough pressure to keep the cyl. from spinning...
Maybe use a C-clamp rather than a vise for a bit finer control of the pressure?

I don't have any .020 wrenches...so I'll get to tryin' the above later tonight and let yaz know how it worked...(or didn't ..I think it'll work well )

lildiesel

[edit]

Whoops! jumped the gun and repeated the wooden vice clamped tool described above. I've seen this technique in several places and used it successfully on a PAW .03 once.