opegt71

Does anyone have any experience with CS diesel motors? I bought a .061 CS R/C diesel motor at the Toledo show and right now I am looking for a plane to install it in.

Mr Cox

Have a look at the diesel forum; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7149409/tm.htm

Apperently the latest batch of diesels has a better piston/liner fit than the glow version that is a sad sight in terms of quality...
(a case of rather good intentions but poorly executed I think)

DeviousDave

I posted a few initial impressions of my motor after running and disassembling it in my thread on 1/2A at Toledo. P/L fit is very good on my motor, the crank isn''t. My Dad bought one as well and I saw him a few days later he offered to give me his as it was a POS. He hasn''t run his yet, but it has a lot of the same problems as mine does. Like mine, his has a crank problems and he found out why our carb mounting screws are torn up-they had to hamfist them in at the factory because the holes they fit in were drilled offset. Purely a fixturing problem, but it''s endemic of the kind of challenges CS has always faces when building motors. I just don''t understand where the disconnect is in the factory.. Obviously they have competent engineers, relatively skilled labor, how hard is it to get good castings, round centerless grinding on the cranks, proper fixturing etc. I come from a machine manufacturing background and we could train monkeys to do better quality work with a few people who know something walking around and minding their work. Just boggles the mind, especially since Thunder Tiger, Magnum, Super Tiger, GMS etc. have clearly shown that the ChiComs can build good engines..

digital_trucker

The glow version I have has a great p/l fit. Too bad the needle wiggles around in the carb like a pencil in a doughnut.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Well, I received mine on saturday. It appears that the box is built to stricter tolerences

I thought it looked pretty good on initial inspection - the flats on the head are close to parallel
Like Dave said - I was horrified when I removed the two countersunk screws holding the carb in.
The holes in the carb shank - If they are supposed to be clocked at 0 and 180, mine are 0 and 160.
They need to use little countersunk screws to cover the misalignment. Cleaned it out to remove the swarf - reoiled and reassembly. my contra is impossible to turn - that will require some energy.

Chevy worked his over a bit and is getting pretty good numbers and after cutting a little airbleed notch in the barrel it idles very well - in the high 2,000''s i seem to remember. And the top end I don''t remember but not quite mpjett or schlosser 1cc figures but approaching them.

Now having said all that and beating up on this little engine pretty good - I still think what I have received is worth the cost of admission - hell, the box is beautiful I just enjoy the pride of ownership of a quality piece better than the enjoyment of getting a bargin.....

DeviousDave

They aren''t after you put a 16" wrench on it to get the head off....... I think they put them on that tight to make sure the head doesn''t unscrew when you turn the contrapiston. That needs at least a 6" hex key to move, and nearly ripped the motor from my test stand clamps.[X(]

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

Sad when you consider that the wholesaler knows full well that he is peddling junk but has the nerve to unload it on guys who buy them in good faith. There''s a narrow path to Heaven and a four lane freeway to Hell.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

this was a clean bowl with a few ounces acetone and 2 Q-tips

add one engine,

the acetone has evaporated off


I knew not to rotate the crank until after cleaning

the engine is squeaky clean now[8D]

In fairness< the majority of "material" here was on the rear cover and head threads and the internals were reasonably clean.
The threads were cutting to eachother and will shed some material as they get friendly.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

size comparision to mpjett .061

the cs is quite a bit smaller, and lighter I bet

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

And The Box!

DeviousDave

I didn''t bother cleaning mine, it had already been run based on the scuffing on the piston and smell of recent combustion/fuel. Gotta say, she starts nice...

DeviousDave

When I was at the show, I was pretty sure that was him at the booth but didn''t engage in small talk because there''s no payoff in announcing myself as the guy who he remembers talking badly about CS engines on RCU. I bought the engine with the knowlege that a) if it ran it would be a miracle, b) it was going to be a project motor, and c)I resolved to kiss my $48 goodbye.

Sometimes I get invited by friends to go to the Casino. I plop my butt down in front of the nickle slots and take $20 and pay them to let me sit there and pull the handle. I expect the money to be exhausted by the end of the night, but am pleasantly surprised if it gives me a little money back and lets me play a little longer. That''s how I feel about the CSD. It will work out, I think.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Dave,
Sounds like you are getting along better than I am. I need to put a breakerbar on my contra - sucker won''t budge (and yes it was frozen before the acetone bath)

If I put this in a plane I would tear the nose off of the plane trying to adjust compression.....[&o]

has anyone had their contra out? I assume it would be a regular contra with a internally wrenching screw bearing down from above? Can anyone confirm? Or are the contra and screw a single piece?

SGC

From info on previous posts the contra and screw are 1 piece, no oring , just a neat/tight fit.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Stewart,
I was able to free it. But still very tight - may be able to run her up now.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Ran her up last night on a 7x4 apc and was showing 10,700 as I was increasing compression I kinked the fuel line and killed the engine.
I think it had a couple hundred more rpm in there.
I think Chevy was getting around 11,500 on his but it would heat up and overcompress and fall on it's face shortly after.

DeviousDave

Those numbers sound pretty good, maybe get around 11,000-11,200 when the liner loses some of it's death pinch. Did your motor loosen up at all with the running?

chevy43

Mine didn't loosen after about 4 hours of running. They are built with too much pinch but they do run....

digital_trucker

..unless you have the glow version (or am I just unlucky?)

Mr Cox

...no the glow version seems to come really loose straight out of the box. Apperently these diesel are of a later and better batch...

I tighten my glow up by making an oil groove using a blunt tool on a lathe. Haven't flown it yet, but bench running are sort of ok, considering the weight...
(15000 rpm on a MAS5.5X3 and a proper muffler)

chevy43

I'm not sure I would call too much pinch better.........

Mr Cox

Ok, I get your point but you can at least lapp it with lapping compound if you want to...

combatpigg

My Feedback: (3)

A cast iron/steel engine can get loosened up with dry toothpaste or sink cleanser and oil. Fox used to sell something called Lustrox that was supposed to fill the pores and microscopically polish the internals while the engine ran with this stuff mixed in the fuel. Is anyone here willing to run some fuel with a pinch of this stuff? It isn't for lapping, it is supposed to be for maintaining whatever clearance the parts already have.

digital_trucker

The problem with my glow version isn't piston pinch (has plenty of that). My problem is watching the needle unscrew when I touch the starter to it.

Mr Cox

Ahhh, a bit of fuel tubing can solve that, make it a touch too long to push agains the needle and hold it in place...