Hey all. Is Tim the only one around here who can/will anodize aluminum parts? I have a couple of cylinder heads that I'd like to have anodized. I can't seem to find any local business that does it.

Thanks,
David

Stratford Metal Finishing in Winston Salem

Here's an interresting link in case you want to try to do it yourself:

http://modelenginenews.org/meng/anodizing.html

Thanks. I'll contact the folks in WS.

I saw a "home kit" for sale on the web. That's something to think about.

http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/aluminum.htm

David

I actually tried anodizing at my shop to harden #40 chain aluminum gears for my microsprint, read an article on the web and got myself a 12v battery charger, tupperware container and some battery acid ( you mix it with water ) and some RIT DYE to add some color, i was suprized how easy it was to do, some colors were hit and miss and actually came up with some cool colors i wasn't expecting.

Does it have to be a auto battery charger, or will a 12v power supply work, too? I converted a PC power supply for use with my Triton II. If I can use the PC PS I might think about trying it. How many amps does it require?

David

David,

We use Stratford Metals for the commercial aircraft seats where I work (completely forgot about them the other day when we talked).

So, I have a friend at work who may be able to get you a deal. I will see what I can do about getting you a contact number.

Brian

You need a "filtered" 12v power suply, most PC power suply's are switching types, they will get you poor results. its not hard to do really, just a mess and the fumes can even make the pig gag.

Awesome Brian!

However, I just read some disheartening info on this web site: http://www.focuser.com/anodize.html

Here's a quote from the site,

"Note: if the aluminum part has other metal or steel parts pressed into it, do not re-anodize the part. Metals other than aluminum will dissolve away during the anodizing process."

Glow engine heads have threaded glow plug inserts. So, if I try to re-anodize my old OS Max Goldhead, or my Webra Blackhead, I will probably damage the threaded inserts. Bummer.

David

You can drill out the hole, anodize, then get the head re bushed with brass, thrd'd for the glow plug. the new bushing is stepped, flange on the combustion side and seated in a counter bore for the flange. works great. Good project for the fledging machinists in this group Done right, they are much better than new. I wish engines made these days would go back to the brass glow plug holes. Last a lot longer and harder to strip.

I agree with that, i tried putting a pc of steel in one day and yes it will get eaten away, my best results were with clean aluminum, when polished before anodizing the resutls were much better, as for the 12v battery charger make sure it's not one of those automatic ones, the one i used was a rather larger automotive battery charger and if i remember correctly i think i was on 12v 10A.

I've been doing anodizing for years. Heads can be hit and miss, it depends on the grade of aluminum. If machined from 6061 or 7075, you can get good results. If its cast from high silicon aluminum (and many are) all you get is a nice, dark grey finish that won't take the dye. The dyes are special, very fine grain products with the correct PH.

Any part that isn't meant to be treated, can be masked off with a soft epoxy mix that doesn't fully harden. Depends on the brand, but mixing only half the hardener usually works. That peels off easily when the anodizing is finished.

Thanks Andy. I guess if the heads were originally anodized by the factory them should work fine, yes?

I have a used OS Max .60 Goldhead that the previous owner cleaned too well. I didn't even know it was a Goldhead until I disassembled it and saw the underside of the head.

Here's what it's supposed to look like. This is av8rsodt's engine that I cleaned and restored for him.

I know this isn't 1/2A, but the people here know about all this stuff, like anodizing, etc. There's probably more modeling knowledge here than anywhere else on RCU.

David

Beautiful looking .60 there Dave![8D] Now, you just got to get Brian to build a Classic pattern ship around it.

Hi Dave,

Yes, that would make it the right grade for anodizing. Note that all the old anodizing must be stripped off first. This can reduce the part size by a few thou but it's only noticeable by way of slightly rounded edges. Takes the edge off,,,,

That gold colour though, may be a bit hard to duplicate. The Norvel head was done with a gold dye but it comes out more orange than gold. How accurate do you need the colour? I could experiment with some spare heads of my own but the grade of ally from one manufacturer to another is unknown.

Or, I could make it green, red, PURPLE [X(] etc.

PM me for more details.

PM sent.

BTW, your Norvel looks really cool.

Thanks,
David

I tried the modelengine news method on a diesel head and spinner with no success. I think I did the spinner 3 or 4 times varying technique each time. I know others have done this successfully, but not me.

Jim

Dave if you strike out with Stratford there are several others in the area that will do small qty jobs but they were the closest to you. I've used them all over the years.

That engine was the "GP" which stood for "Golden Pride". It was an anniversary engine. I think it was available as front or rear intake.

Here's mine:

George

George, I know there is no engine that you don't own (two of). So, how many of these do you have?

BTW, I'll bet that "Super Tigre Blue" is a probably tough color to duplicate accurately.

David