WoodNitroRubber

I have a BW that I havn't run in at least a year. Looked at it today and it was pretty stiff. What's the best course of action to get it going again? Thanks

-Grant

Mr Cox

Glow fuel is often enough. If it doesn't run well then take it apart and clean the reed...

Remby

My Feedback: (3)

That fuel is bad to handle, try to keep from touching it directly as you use it to free the engine. I would tear the engine down, and clean everything , then oil as it is assembled. Clogs in the internal fuel line, needle and backplate should be checked for. A rebuild kit may be needed to do all this, so if this is missing from the hanger's workshop it may be good to find a kit.

Next time, I would try the after-run oil and baggie trick, it comes out of storage ready to rock.

Yuu

I would just squirt a little glow fuel in the exhaust and flip the prop several times. When it loosens up, fill the tank, squirt some more int he exhaust, hook up the battery and start it. Works for me w/ 15% nitro.

WoodNitroRubber

Thanks guys. Guess I'll try the glow fuel method and if that doesn't work I'll take it apart, clean, oil, ect.

flyinrog

My Feedback: (1)

Only a year, I bet fuel will do the trick, check the glow head before you try and start it, or before you bother to clean it..Rog

gcb

If it was running good a year ago, you should be able to free it up with glow fuel. You may have to run off a few primes to free things up internally.

If you have problems, remove the needle valve and squirt some fuel down the threads. If it will still only run primes, the reed may be held open by some congealed castor or a piece of grit. Clean the reed and housing (carefully). If you check the pickup tube, etc., make sure to not lose the little seal between the backplate and tank on the tank's intake tube.

Good luck. Keep us posted.

George

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

One thing that is nice about Cox engines is they can be taken apart in just a few minutes and just soaked in some Hoppe's No. 9 gun cleaning solvent overnight, strained, then rinsed in a soup can of methanol (a small bottle of yellow HEET gas line antifreeze from the gas station) and a scrub with an old toothbrush, pipe cleaner, Q-tips under hot soap and water usually brings everything back to new with just some easy brushing. The Hoppe's gun fluid does a decent job lifting off castor old and new all by itself just by soaking and doesn't hurt anything but be sure to remove the small tank seal O-ring first.
Shake the parts off from the hot water rinse and they should dry good without spots.

To save some work, it probably would be safe enough to leave the cylinder on the crankcase, along with the piston and crank, and let that get soaked and rinsed as an assembly, spinning it a few times with fresh Hoppe's as you go, then rinse with alcohol and let dry. The tank parts should be clean all seperate before you use them because of all the small passages.

lildiesel

Hmmm... that's the citronella scented gun oil right? Must make the cleaning smell better.

I save the unused portions of power steering fluid after routine changes for soaking and freeing parts. Works well on old gummed up glow and diesel engines and the cost gets hidden in the car maintenance budget. Now I can add Heet to that list.

gcb

I haven't used Hoppe's #9 since they removed the nitro benzine from it. Does it still work as well?

George

jessiej

IMHO, no it does not, but that is a purely subjective opinion. (BTW I only used it on guns).

Ed's Red homemade bore cleaner works well on both guns and engines.

jess

WoodNitroRubber

Allright, I put some fuel in the cylinder and it free'd up. Took a little while to get it started but it ran good. Put about two tanks through it so far today. Thanks guys. Wow Hoppies 9? Haha, I got some of that around here for the .22. Nice to know.

gcb

Using 100% castor lube in Cox engines and running hard will cause Castor varnish to form on the cylinder. Hoppes was used by some to remove the varnish occasionally. Some folks mixed some Hoppes in fuel and would run a tank of that mix occasionally. Adding some synthetic oil to the castor or using a castor/synthetic blend will prevent varnish buildup these days.

Glad you got your BW running.

George