rrragmanliam

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Hmmmm. Should I be excited or suspicious?

aspeed

Excited. Is there still a good supply of these motors?

forsakenrider

Really Doug? You de-stroked one of my engines, I might have to send it back and the other two!

aspeed

Forsakenrider-Send the rod and crank to me and I will send my new stock ones to you. I only have one. The hole in the bottom of the rod, and the crankpin are about .131" on the stock one. Your's should be smaller. I could even give you the $20 he charges. I could set it up myself, but am a bit lazy. You likely wouldn't be able to measure the difference anyway, but for competition it has to be less than .05 Cu. In.

FF-doug

The Nitrohouse tells me that there are no more non-pull start engines. Only pull-start available. They do have rear covers in stock, and they are fairly easy to make if there were none. I still have 28 engines new in the box. There probably are other suppliers that still have the non-pull start engines.

RocketRob

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Is anyone still futzing with these little engines?

After a multi year hiatus I am returning my engines to service.
My little picco was feeling pretty gritty upon rotation and could not get the prop driver off and I left nothing to grab with a gear puller on the prop driver so I soaked it with some other mean and hateful little engines in acetone. Surprisingly the acetone didn't attack the black paint and it didn't loosen up the prop driver of crank either. So I fired up the crockpot of death (ATF) and it did a nice job loosening the engine and removing the paint. So upon disassembly the rear bearing only has like 6 balls in it left - where did the others go? When did they go there? Inquiring minds want to know! The new silver case looks kinda nice. How do you remove bearings in these engines?

Pond Skipper

I did a prop test today APC 4.22 x 6.5 hit 164 mph pitch speed with a Pofi .8cc tuned pipe see my youtube on the test.
The goal is to bust 200 mph unloaded. Think Mel / Toad pops the bare case and bearings in the oven forgot what temp
perhaps 220F is enough at temp the rear bearing will tap out with little fuss same with the front. Might just have to tap
the case a few time for them to fall out of their seats.

RocketRob

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Sweet. Love the program graphic also!

I think I found out what happened to all my little bearings, the race disintegrated, whether from the acetone soak or or the ATF crockpot of death. The inner race and remaining balls all fell out leaving just the outer rear race in the case.
So I put it on a shelf and dug through inventory and canibalized a case from a pull start motor to use for now. The pull starts are pretty nice pieces actually - not sure what to do with it....

What header are you using on her? I found a truck/car OEM header that fits but it is not a great piece and slightly undersize for the pipe.

Pond Skipper

There are a few headers made for this class / case arrangement engine.
Mainly stems from the Chaos 1/16th car and variants. You have the version
that was not threaded I have one but prefer the threaded version and always
put a pressure tap on them for best results. Only put two taps on the pipes
themselves the benefits was not worth all the extra pressure line flopping about.
The threaded version comes from Sportwerks 2.5mm, examples on my speed thread
at RC Groups in the 1/2A forum a wealth of info documented for future use.
Europe holds more replacement parts / headers last I looked around 80 in stock.
I stocked up around 9 threaded headers and close to 20 various engines below.
Many conversions to aero use on the speed thread, to include a .09 car engine
to .12's Forums hold data longer but the horrible fact is the net gives and the net
takes away some servers such as Google will data dump older search files forever.
It is determined by hit popularity. Rare you find much uploads before the year 2000.
But can find savored photos of the past posted post 2k. I have seen my searches
change over the years what comes up back then does not today. I tend to save
info on my speed thread to lock it in even if the search engine does not bring it up
still on the massive thread. Search through this thumb gallery to find things of interest.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thum...=threadgallery
select view in post and bingo. I have converted pull start backplates to lean mean
areo use. Mecoa sells replacement backplates fits the Picco and other .05's

Engines:
CY .06 (missed the mark on compression - low requires a mod shave to sleeve top)
Is a true .06 just under a .07 a cheat engine to beat the .05's

Shuwa Industry:
Sportwerks .05
Toki .05
Fuji .05
Trinity and all other logo stamped engines from Shuwa Industry engine company.

Picco .05

SH .07 the wild one with a round side exhaust port a beast once set up for aero.

RocketRob

My Feedback: (1)

Found the Sportwerks header for $6.99 ea. on closeout here if anyone else is interested.

https://shop.stormerhobbies.com/product-p/swk4122.htm

Pond Skipper

Yes been buying from them back when they had 118 in stock, down to 9 now, I went ahead and bought two more, one for a Norvel .074
I use thick walled silicon tube requires no zip ties ok if retained well at the stinger. For sure want to cut at the bend to max out the length
for the coupler to have enough grab onto.

You can obtain Profi pipes from the Russian guy out of CA - $97.95 a pop / 11.2g
Nice and low weight 2nd level "design" compared to the older G&Z / CS pipes,
The pipe volume work well with .05 to SH .07 car engines.


Profi Engines (Ukraine) : Hobby Club

paulgibeault

Just a few correction notes hereSorry for straying off topic) Wayne Trivin's wonderful home built and hybrid engines were NEVER banned in AMA mouse race...they are still 100% legal to this day. What allowed their use in the first place was when some rule book artist got cute and had the AMA RULES changed to remove the word production, from the statement, "must be a production engine". Then the door was opened to allow ANY manner of mods all the way up to complete home built purpose engines.
( Look under NCLRA National Control Line Racing Association where Wayne's website has been preserved).

fyrstormer

I own a couple, but I haven't run any in a long time. They were my first nitro engine, and I installed one in a Turnigy Nitro Buggy (1/16-scale). It's a fantastic little engine, but the rest of the buggy couldn't keep up with the engine, and I don't have the machining skill or equipment to make my own upgrade parts. Lately I've been contemplating ways I could use my Picco P-Zeros, but I haven't come up with anything yet. The fact that the end of the crankshaft is M4 threaded instead of M5 threaded is a problem for use with cars, because the smallest pilot shaft (for holding the flywheel onto the crankshaft) that I can find has an internal threading of M5. There aren't really any suitably-sized RC cars I could install the engines in nowadays anyway; .12 is the smallest engine that's commonly used in RC cars. I could maybe try to build the lightest possible touring car I can, and fit a P-Zero to it, but I'd still have to deal with the problems posed by trying to fit a 1/10-scale clutch to a 1/16-scale engine.

You remove the bearings by heating up the crankcase in a toaster oven. I set mine to 400°F and I leave the crankcase in for about 10 minutes. (make sure to remove the rubber seals from the bearings before doing this.) It's a good idea to have new bearings ready-to-go as soon as you remove the heated crankcase and tap the old bearings out; just put the new bearings on the crankshaft and use the crankshaft as a guide to fit the new bearings into place, first the front bearing and then the rear bearing. As long as you're replacing the bearings, you might as well upgrade to stainless/ceramic from Boca Bearings, because the races won't rust and the ceramic balls will keep the races polished.