proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Is it ok to do so?
Seems I recall reading somewhere that the .049 reset tool was designed for the .049, .051 and .09
Is that true, or was the info incorrect?

I have the .049 reset tool from DDD and a couple of .09's (1 Tee Dee and 1 Medalion ) that could use a reset...

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Nope sorry they are all different sizes. The instruction sheet they throw in the bag is generic, and lists all the sizes on it, but the tools are different.

The anvils are special and have a raised circle in the center to support just under the ball cup, which allows the lips of the piston to stay clear of any damage, and the hole that the piston fits into is sized to each engine. The peen tool is also sized accordingly. The milled clearance slot for the rod is larger, so is the centerdrill cup.

I assume the 049/051 is the same though.

Not sure about the DDD product though...

If you don't have any luck finding anyone else offering and feel lucky let me know and I can drag out my calibrated sledge hammer and give yours a whack for you Proptop free of charge.

I've done quite a few for myself now and they are still all one-piece! The neighbors have already asked if I'm building another house in my house with all the late night pounding.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

I don't think they're talking about you pounding on the reset tool, it's the wife's plumbing they're refering too. and that brings up another very important point,.....close the blinds and turn off the lights.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks JP...that's what I thought...
I just might take ya up on your generous offer [8D]
I will be getting one of those alum front "carb" housings (that replaces the black plastic ) from the guy on ebay...turns out he lives not too far from me.
When I take it apart, I will inspect the socket more closely...but I'm pretty sure it's a bit too loose (LeTrec )

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

planebuilder66 I'll save the blindfold for proptop's reset job. [sm=lol.gif] You forgot to remind me also not to forget the heavy leather gloves.

Anytime, proptop...just keep me in mind, first things first. [sm=thumbs_up.gif][sm=shades_smile.gif]

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Blindfold and a BFH (AKA "fine alignment tool" ) ahhh yes

I'm thinking about / "designing" a spanner wrench so I can get the front collar and prop driver off. (don't have any .09 wrenches )
On my Tee Dee .049's, I just use the spanner part of the glow head wrench and unscrew the collar, and that pushes the prop driver off...that's the normally accepted method, correct?

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

You can probably do it that way, I've done it before on my 049's but the aluminum collar is pretty soft, and the splines are pressed pretty hard.

It's best just to use a punch (nail) or another screw to tap the crankshaft out the back of the case, or you'll run the chance of marking up the collar too much. The 09's have a large enough thread where a nail is large enough to not bend using it as a punch inside the tapped hole. 049's usually a spare screw is the only thing strong enough not to bend.

Those prop driver plates can be toughies sometimes until they have been taken on and off once or twice. I've found shavings behind some, so that's a clue there's a hard press on a few.

If you can, eyeball the crankpin to 12 O'clock and strike a line across the prop driver so when it's time to put back on, it is somewhat lined up. It will help it go back on easier. The splines can be out-of-round, spaced different, or whatever...and make it another new shear to the prop driver when driven back on. You don't want that, but starting somewhat close to where it was at does make a difference, I've noticed. No real way of marking it exact.[sm=72_72.gif]

You'll have to tap the crank back in also with the assembly pointed nose down. The prop screw method might be a bit tough or frustrating. Soft screws have a habit of fooling you they are making progress, when actually they are just twisting themselves off and breaking inside the hole. [:@]

Just before the prop plate bottoms out on the spline, back the collar out a bit and run it tight against the prop plate to see if it's being driven square. If it is not, tighten the collar against it, and it should square up enough to finish driving it home. This can be done anytime along the process, and good to check just past the start of the press (pounding) operation.

You'll probably need a piece of flat hardwood with a pilot hole drilled through to pass the prop locator boss on the prop driver so the whole thing sits flat on the prop grooves.

After you get all this done, check to see if you remembered installing the thrust washer behind the prop driver.

gcb

Here are a few pics for general info. Enjoy:

1. DDD .049 reset tool from ~15 years ago.
2. Cox .09 reset tool instructions. As someone mentioned, the packaging had these generic instructions with the size checked on the packaging label.
3. The Cox .09 reset tool drawing.
4. Cox .09 reset tool. Note the packing grease still on it. I have not (yet) had to use it.
5. Reset tool up close.
6. Here you can see the ridge in the center of the anvil that was mentioned above.

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Thanks for the excellent advice, and pictures guys![8D]
I've done a bunch of .049's, and recently got an .020 reset tool from Select Hobbies, so I'm good to go there...
Now if I can do these 2 .09's, my collection will be pretty much RTR...(well...except for the 1) .010 and 1) .15 Sportsman...but I don't have plans to use them right away...gotta use some of my .020's and .049's first )