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A ½A FAQ

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Old 07-19-2003, 01:57 AM
  #76  
putt_13
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I will take that oil out, and quickly put some Marvel Mystery Air Tool oil in. I might try that heated soaking with my next engine that comes.

So, letting an engine completely submerge in oil wont hurt it? I might just fill up a dish with my AIR TOOL OIL, and let the motor be completely submerged for awhile. THanx -Patrick

PS- Do you know anyone that is selling a starter capable of starting a 1/2A engine. I posted in the classifieds, but got no responses.

PSS- What is that Society you talked about do?
Old 07-19-2003, 02:17 AM
  #77  
William Robison
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Pat:

Complete submersion wont hurt the engine, but get all the oil out after soaking, or as much as you can, before you try to start it. If you don't intend to heat the oil just pop the head off and hang the engine in the oil wrong side up, with the oil a little over the exhaust port. This way you wont fill the crankcase and you wont have to worry about getting it out. Alternately, pull the head AND the backplate off and drop the whole engine in the oil.

You have heard of Mensa? They are the smartest people. The Non Compos Mentis Society is for people at the other end. Translation of the latin means "Not capable of thinking."

Bill.
Old 07-19-2003, 04:41 AM
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I think for now I will just let the oil sit in the cylinder. I spin the prop every so often, to get the oil into all the parts of the cylinder. After I let it soak for awhile, I am gonna break it in. I am gonna run about 8 tanks through. The first very rich, and ever next tank would be a little leaner. Thanx for all the help. -Patrick
Old 07-19-2003, 04:51 AM
  #79  
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Pat:
...gonna run about 8 tanks through. The first very rich...
WHOA!!!!

Dosn't your instruction sheet tell you not to do this? If you run it rich it will not get hot enough to run properly. At best you'll aggravate the wear, at worst you will break the connecting rod.

Do not ever run these engines rich. Always have them running in a full two cycle. Go a little on the rich end of two cycle, but never let them get back into a four cycle. That's also why you want a low pitch prop for breakin - lets the engine run free with minimum load.

Bill.
Old 07-19-2003, 05:49 AM
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thanx for warning me
-Patrick
Old 07-19-2003, 04:07 PM
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I might try that heating process later tonight. I have an old sauce pan that would work. Or maybe I will just use a tin can. I''m buying some props today. I will be getting a few 5x3, hopefully a 5.7x3 and a few 6x3.s Then I will have a large array. I also need to design my engine break-in stand. Its almost as much fun getting ready to break an engine is, as breaking it in will be. -Patrick
Old 07-20-2003, 06:50 PM
  #82  
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ok, I had some starting problems today. With the engine, I would connect the fuel line from the tank to the carb, and the line from the muffler from the tank. Now, when I covered the carb, and rotated the prop, the fuel didnt come into the engine from the tank. It just moved back and forth in the fuel line. Also, there were many bubbles in the line. Lastly, when I turn the prop, acter the compression, I hear a hissing sound, like its sucking in air, and not fuel. What should I do?? Thanx -Patrick

PS- IS there anyway to get the throttle arm not to move when you move the needle valve.


PSS- The HISSING sound i was talking about, well I Just looked into the cylinder, and after the piston reaches the top of the cylinder, on the way back down little air bubbles form around the piston head. What is this??
Old 07-21-2003, 12:24 AM
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OK, now this is a total novice question, but I need the engine in full throttle mode, and then thats when I adjust the needle valve...right?
Old 07-21-2003, 12:33 AM
  #84  
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Pat:

Yes.

Bill.
Old 07-21-2003, 07:12 PM
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OK,
Well, I can start it now, and everything is going OK. I just have a few questions. Why do they call it a 2 oz fuel tank, if you can only fill it up half-way before it starts to squirt out the exhaust line. Also, could this happen. I think I am leaking fuel out of my muffler. I know that exhaust is that slimy stuff, but COLD liquid is coming of from the muffler too, when the engine is running. This is GLOW FUEL, right? Is there anyway to seal it off, so that fuel doesnt leak outta my muffler. THanx -Patrick
Old 07-21-2003, 09:55 PM
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Pat:

Examine the tank carefully. You should see one line going to a "Clunk," this is an internal hose with a weighted end. The other line, from the mufffler, should connet to a vent going to the top of the internal chamber of the tank.

If you can only fill the tank halfway, you might have it mounted sideways such that the pressure vent is at one side rather than at the top.

Give it a check.

Bill.
Old 07-22-2003, 01:01 AM
  #87  
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Hello,
Below is a picture of that the fuel tank looks like. Now the only want that I could fix this problem would be to mount the tank like the second picture. Is this how it is supposed to go??? It doesnt seem like it should be on its side. -Patrick
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Old 07-22-2003, 01:04 AM
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This is the only way the problem could be solved. -Patrick
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Old 07-22-2003, 01:17 AM
  #89  
Bipe Flyer
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Second picture.
Old 07-22-2003, 01:17 AM
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If that's the only way, then that's the way it goes... like the previous post says.
Most tanks have a molded in "bubble" that you adjust the pressure line, to
have the end of it come out inside this bubble. That's the top of the tank.

If yours doesn't have one, or if your tank will only fit the plane one way, then
you must ensure that the pressure tubing inside the tank goes to the top of the tank.

As you've already seen, it doesn't work very well, otherwise.


EDIT... If this tank has a "molded in" pressure fitting... then ignore everything else
I said, and put it to the top, as you and bipe-flyer already said.
DOH!
Old 07-22-2003, 01:33 AM
  #91  
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The hayes tank should be used in this orientation.
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Old 07-23-2003, 03:43 AM
  #92  
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Hello,
Is it normal for an engine to leak unused fuel when running rich. When it runs rich, which is all it has been doing, besides the slimy exhaust, unused fuel comes out. Also, shoudl your tank be somewhat lower than your carb, because today, I had a full tank, and I connected the fuel line and then left for awhile. When I came back fuel had siphoned into the engine, and half the tank was now of the concrete. THe fuel nipple was only like 1/8th inch higher than the carb. If this is normal, do you need to keep tricycle gear and no gear airplanes nose high when fueling, or else fuel would siphon into the carb. Thanx in advance for answering my berroge of questions. -patrick
Old 07-23-2003, 04:04 AM
  #93  
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Did you read what William Robison said about running rich? Yes, if you run rich, unused fuel will come out of the muffler.

Ideally you should have the carb in-line with the line to the tank. I mount my engines on their side, so most of the time the carb quite low. I suspect you are having problems with siphoning because you have the needle set too rich. How can it siphon when you are filling the tank? You should be filling it through the line that connects to the carb.
Old 07-23-2003, 04:21 AM
  #94  
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Pat:

Yes, it is normal to have raw fuel blowing out the exhaust when the engine is running way rich. You should not be running the engine that rich - it will not get the temperature up high enough to be safe.

When the tank is close to being centered on the needle valve the fuel level in a full tank will be a lot higher than the carb, and fuel will run into the engine. Cure? When you fill the tank start the engine.

Again - the engine should scream for the breakin, but scream with a light load. If it doesn't scream you're running it too cold.

Bill.
Old 07-23-2003, 01:31 PM
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I'm running too cold then. Also, is the throttle less effective when running rich, because I know full throttle is when the throttle arm is pointed somewhat towards the back of the engine, but when running rich, there doesnt seem to be a big difference. THanx -Patrick
Old 07-23-2003, 01:53 PM
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Just put a tank through...This time I had it running nice and hot. Still had some gas spewing. Also, I meant it siphoned outta the tank into the carb AFTER fueling. Right when I pulled the fuel outta the carb line, it would run outta the tube. This was when the carb and tube were level. It only happens when the engine isnt running, so it shouldnt be a problem. BTW, my Simple 400 comes pretty soon. Any opinions on this kit. -Patrick
Old 07-23-2003, 06:28 PM
  #97  
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Pat:

Never built that one, but the "Simple" series is generally easy to build, and if built per the instructions they are easy to fly. Easy for such a small plane, anyway.

Bill.
Old 07-23-2003, 07:28 PM
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I am just glad I have experience flying. I couldnt imagine trying to fly a fast airplane and not knowing what each stick does. Especially when you need to know which one to move RIGHT NOW, or else its a balsa party. BTW, I think I have the first engine broken in. I have been running it HOT, and a tad rich. Now I am getting leaner, and it will hold a full throttle setting with ease. I figure about 1 more oz at totally lean will finalize the process. I must say, I cant wait to get flying. I am a bit leary about flying the Simple 400 first. I would like the CUB, or something with a nose MADE for glow engines, the simple 400 has a nose made for electrics. Maybe I will build the Simple 400, but buy a Cub or something else to learn to fly with. Just my thoughts. -Patrick

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