ORIGINAL: MinnFlyer
Everyone always says, ''A lighter plane flies better'', but really, unless it's a 3D plane, don't lose any sleep over adding a few ounces. Move the battery if possible, but then add weight if it needs it.
I DO like to make sure that any added weight is going to stay in place. Stick-on weights may be ok on the tail, but they will eventually come loose in the engine compartment due to the oil, so I use screws or epoxy.
It's also a really bad idea to add weight to the cowl ot tail wheel bracket as they were not meant to carry such weight, so the vibrations could cause a cowl to crack or elongate its mounting holes - likewise the extra weight on a tail wheel bracket could cause the wire to break (even if it has a spring)
BTW, regarding my first statement; I have had two planes which have required over a pound of nose weight and one that needed 11oz - they all flew GREAT!
Also, I prefer NOT to add weight to the crankshaft in the form of heavy washers or a weighted hub. In the rare event of throwing a prop in flight, you now have to land a tail heavy plane with no power!
Mike, you know how I feel about that old statement, True to a point but it has taken on new meaning by ARF manufactures selling planes with very little wood in them and people have bought into it. Oh well, keep saying it enough and people will buy into it. If you have ever assembled one of the 90 size Nitroplanes Extra 300s then you better be ready to start adding lead. Even a heavy four stroke up front isn't going to do it all. I now have some tricks for building {plans} bipes that had round motors but my 68 inch Boeing F4B-2 required 3 pounds of added lead to the cowl. That was with everything up behind the fire wall. I have used a OS 1.20 pumper and a Brison 2.4 gasser in it and it needs lead. This plane is one that lighter really would be better, it's an air slug!! It's a wall hanger too!!