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Old 09-16-2010 | 10:28 PM
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AirTech
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From: Peru, IN
Default RE: RedWing MX2 Build

Believe or not I was able to squeeze out a couple hour after coming back home this evening. I finished cutting the muffler hole om the cowl. Man I hate working with fiberglass, one have to wear so much protection to avoid inhaling the stuff that it makes you sweat and it fogs my glasses. At least that's over and I include a photo of the final look. By the way note I sealed the cowl scale intake holes with a black plastic material which I RTV to the inside.

I keep on finding more very neat engineering details I haven't seen on any other models of this size and cost. For example the engine box is designed to accept throttle and or choke servos on any of three different positions, I have only seen this on 33% or larger models. In order to take advantage of this option I decided to install d pair of HS-82MG's to drive the throttle and choke. One great advantage of this setup is that one can install a direct servo link for slop free control. I only needed to epoxy a pair of 3/32" servo rails to the provided servo holes in order fit the two micro servos (see photo). For the benefit of those interested on fabricating their own carbon graphite links with ball link joints I explain the procedure.

First off you need the following materials:
(1) 1/8" O.D. Brass Tubing
(2) 5/32 O.D. carbon rod
(3) 4-40 threaded rod
(4) 4-40 Ball Links
(5) 4-40 Tap

First of cut a few 1/2" long brass tube pieces. De-burr and file flat the ends of the brass pieces. Slide one brass piece on the end of the carbon rod and bond with thick CA. The brass will reinforce the CG and prevents from splitting when tapping. Tap the ends with 4-40 tap about 1/2 inch into the CG rod and then tread the 4-40 threaded rod to that end and secure it with thick CA before it's fully threaded. Cut the CG rod to the necessary length and repeat the process on the opposite end. I like to top the ball link bolts with a #4 washer and use a safety nut. I also use aluminum arms and tap them to 4-40 thread for additional safety. Please note I bent the rod ends to provide the necessary clearance of the link from the engine. Well it's 11 PM and I need to get some rest, I will continue tomorrow.

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