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Old 09-18-2010 | 10:45 PM
  #1298  
MTK
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From: Whippany, NJ
Default RE: SAP 180 (Syssa Performance)


ORIGINAL: cmoulder

Matt,

Right now next Saturday looks good for me, if that works for you for the maiden and photo shoot. Please do post a couple of photos so we can appreciate the shiny coat on the new ship.

Just one question on the wing skins... In the Terry Brox tutorial he uses carbon mat under the sheeting, which is not shown in the drawings and photos Mark Hunt supplies with the Pentathlon (just the CF strip tape for spanwise reinforcement). Most of the other foam core wing discussions/tutorials do not mention the CF mat so I am assuming it is optional. I hope this is correct!

BTW, after a few e-mails back and forth with Todd concerning the front bearing issue, I decided to switch to the hard mount for SAP #2. Okay, it will take quite a while (if ever!) to find out if the bearing issue might be related to the soft mount, but it is significant that it is unique to us. Main thing I want to do is to get some flying time with the hard mounting to see if it is feasible, before I get too far into the Pentathlon build.

I don't know if you know Walt Erickson, but he is flying an Aquila with a hard-mounted SAP with the stock Pitts muffler with the tone inserts. Vibration is not bad at all, nor is noise.
Carbon mat is optional. However it is worth consideration because of the stiffness it gives. I've used the 0.2 oz variety for years under skins. Ailerons come out particularly stiff. BUT, the 0.2 oz mat imparts little strength per se'....just stiffness. Do not use the 0.5 oz stock. Much too thick and will absorb way too much epoxy. Wings will weigh several ozs more than they should.

BTW if you used contest grade balsa, the skins should weigh around 40-44 grams each.

Since you will finish in plastic film, definitely use carbon strip under the skin. Sand a groove into the foam the width of the strip as follows: For .007" thick strip, take a 1/2" thick balsa block about 1" wide, and glue a strip of sandpaper the width of your carbon strip on one side of the block. Some 150 grit will produce just about a perfect depth. Use a straightt edge. Works great, try it