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Old 09-20-2010 | 05:33 AM
  #22  
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Taurus Flyer
 
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From: Almelo, NETHERLANDS
Default RE: Building the Flea-Fly

ORIGINAL: ntsmith

Had a long hard think about this aileron connection. I wanted, idealy, to be able to adjust either end so I could pull both ends in to increase differential or do the opposite. Plan A/ I made up two links but found that room precluded the otehrwise good idea. Plan B/ I next went the route of the plan. Simple and effective. It has just a 90 degree wire piece soldered on which just literaly sits in the servo. If the servo was to move then it could come out. Plan C/ was an adaptation of plan B which involved having the same simple wire piece soldered on but also had another 90 degree bend so it cannot escape from the servo arm. This simple answer has two draw backs that I have to live with. 1/ If I want to remove the arm I have to remove the servo and I cannot shorten or lengthen either individualy or together the lengths. The connection to the aileron 90 degree horn at the outer end will have an extender and a nylon clevise to allow adjustment. There will be incorporated a little differential for peace of mind as well.

nt,

The art of building (you did write it), scratch.
I did read your post see quoted and did have to think about my Orion.
As in the past I always use one servo for the ailerons and the frise ailerons of the Orions don't need differential.
I think this can be interesting for you. Next plane or time?

I also do use one rod between the two bellcranks it is much better to prevent play, but to remove the servo I have a small detail to show.
First I can adjust the total length,second I can remove the servo much easy. (Picture 1)
Important because there is not much room in the compartment in the wing. (See blue oval picture 2)

As you did show it is very important to make fail safe solder connections.
The construction is safe, even after I did hit an object I still could control the remaining aileron.

Good luck with building and flying

Cees

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