That's a whole different kettle of fish. Look at those plates in the hub. They've designed this to properley support the stubs of the prop blades. You didn't say that in the first post. Just that you wanted to cut out the hubs to allow you to cross laminate them together.
If you do try this be sure to overbuild the hub plates. Use decent alloy heat treated stock for the plates and be sure it's thick enough to take the loads. How thick depends on what you're using it for. I'd go find some of the Zinger ones to get an idea of what they did first. You'll also need to incorporate a center spacer to prevent the prop nut from collapsing the pates together. And let's not forget that you need to buy one whole prop for each blade so that there is enough meat in the hub to prevent splitting from the screws that go through. And PLEASE don't tell me that you'll just cut through the middle of the hub to make two blades. That would be risking way too much. It's very easy to split the grain of the hub and shed a blade that way.
Just be aware that this is VERY DANGEROUS ground you're walking on. A blade that sheds at full rpm can easily cause serious injury or death. And I am NOT exagerating on this one. Every prop should be tested by starting at idle on at least the size of engine you 're planing on using it on and then only after stepping well behind the arc should you rev it up to full rpm for a good long run. And no spectators for at least 30 feet to either side just in case. Finally be sure to inspect for cracking in the wood or plastic at the hub or stressed blade bolts after every flight for at least the first couple of dozen flights. If it makes it past that then you're probably good for the long term.