Airbusdrvr,
I built this exact plane so I can help:
1. Do not use a nitro engine. The plane comes out EXTREMELY tail heavy even before you put fuel in the tank. Go electric. An e-Flite .46 out runner motor will be more than enough power.
http://h1070467.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...prod=EFLM4046A
use the castle creations Ice HV 60amp brushless ESC
http://h1070467.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...rod=CSEICE60HV and an APC 13x8 electric prop.
http://h1070467.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...prod=APC13080E
2. Use a thunder power 4s 5000mAh pack: 5000mAh 4-Cell/4S 14.8V G4 Pro Power 45C LiPo [THP50004SP45]. Place the pack as far forward as possible
3. As far as the wings go do not use the included pushrods for the rudders. THEY SUCK!!! Put a JR brand or Hitec brand thin wing servo in each wing half to control each of the rudders.
http://h1070467.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...p?prod=JRPS378
http://h1070467.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...prod=HRC35125S
4. Also use the thin wing servo in each wing half to control each aileron.
5. If you put in a retract in the nose be advised that when the nose gear is retracted it shifts the weight back and makes the plane tail heavy.
6. For the wheel pants use an after market wheel pant manufacture for a .46 size plane. Try
http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com . Having to build the pants included with the kit is a PITA.
7. Sheet the wing & vertical stabilizers with the included balsa. You can cover the entire plane with Monokote or Ultracote. I never glassed mine because had it been glassed it would have been too heavy.
Check out this Sig Tristar build as the Long EZ and Tristar are built in an almost identical fashion:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_52...tm.htm#5297052
8. As far as the cowl is concerned I would just cut out the dented part to help increase cooling.
Feel free to write me if you have any further questions.
Saul