ORIGINAL: Dangaras
ORIGINAL: Garthwood
Craig...........Pictures of the jig positioned. Similarity between your jig and TF. Marking first where the holes are to be drilled. I have used a K&S 5/32''nd. aluminum tubing glued on to a jig cut out from a/c ply. A Higley long 1/8'' drill bit used to drill the holes, important to mark with tape the depth. I've used the same jig to drill both the TE of the wing, and the LE of the flap, very similar to the TF47 idea. Last picture is for the TE of the wing. (Bottom of the wing). Not sure if it will work for your scale method. I did not have to cut into the LE of the flap.
I am not sure where I'll be placing the flap servo. I know for sure that I'll be using one servo in each wing. I thought I might place the servo near the wing root to activate the inboard flap, perhaps mid way. I can't at this moment figure out the geometry of the end result, how this is going to effect the inner flap and if there will be any binding.
Your comments are welcome. Thanks.
Garthwood,
I am definitely late arriving at this party, but I am here and have questions about this drilling jig. My flaps will be structurally very similar to yours, I have already got the left wing all shaped and all I need to do is mount them. My questions are:
1. Can you post a flat picture of the jig with a ruler next to it so I can get a feel for the angles?
2. how did you cut the slots in the inner & mid flap to mount the web so they were clean? I plan to make my web out of a pop can glued to a piece of flat, clear plastic then shape as required.
3. Did your link pins work out ok? Did they slide only in and out of the sides or did they alos move along the plane of the flaps? I am not sure but I might use some brass tube inserted inside a larger diameter brass tube to allow them to slide with some slop to avoid binding.
I plan to use Craig's internal T-rod idea to keep the lower winf profile clean. Still trying to decide if a 2.7kg-cm mini servo will do the job or whether I need a standard sized 6kg-cm servo, what have you guys used and how do you find the operation?
Craig rcu had started a thread on the "H9 F4u Corsair adding flaps" on RCU and it helped me to modify this Corsair. I also posted some pictures of my modification. Here's some pictures. For my flaps I used Futaba 9202. I hope the attached pictures will be of help.
For flap web I used thin stainless aluminum (Home Depot). I used a 4-40 wire for pin. I decided to make two webs to join outer/to middle/to inboard flap. The most important to have a web is the mid-to-inner. Important to note the location of the Robart pin hinges, they have to be even. My mid flap Robart pin hing is 1/2" distance from the edges for a better geometry. The inboard are also 1/2" from the edge. The Outer flap Robart hinges are at 1"from inner and outer edges. You have to test before you permanently glue in the hinges. Craig had his mid flap pushrod almost as scale. He explains how he did his. I took the different route as the Top Flite.
At first is like trial and error so don't rush the job, take pictures and make drawings. For your web cut-out slit, you might have to clean out some of the flap's ribs otherwise the web/wire will bind, and that is done by removing some balsa sheating and replace it again, some restructering have to be corrected inside the flap. The web/wire should be slightly bent to take the curve down shape of the flap. One side of the web and pin should be glued in. The metal web should be glued in to the mid flap and the pins should be glued in to the outer flap and the inboard flap. There should be a slit for the pins and another longer slit for the web........there should be no binding.
Hope this will help.
Charles.