ORIGINAL: Tony Hallo</p>
ORIGINAL: ATVAlliance</p>
ORIGINAL: DAN REISS</p>
Here's the website for UBEC
http://www.koolflightsystems.com/ultimatebec.htm</p>
It's obviuos what the battery is.</p>
I don't know what the other module is. It may be a battery regulator.</p>
Is the plane electric powered? Dan.</p>
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Yeah...I also found the UBEC on HK. Low cost deal at only 7 bux.
The batt...well Ive never had any issues with any JR packs Ive used in the past...so I can only assume its a decent pack.</p>
No...this is a gasser. It has a 65cc RCGF engine. Here are a couple more pics I took simply because I couldnt believe the amount of weight added to the firewall.</p>
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Also...the engine mount/standoffs is obviously home-made out of some long nuts and metal welded together. One can only imagine the weight of that thing...not even counting the added lead.</p>
I dont have a scale other than bathroom digitals. I weighed myself...then weighed myself holding the plane with wings on it and it come in at 18lbs. With a 65cc engine on this plane (calls for 40-50cc) I would have thought it would have been nose heavy.</p>
Anyway...perhaps you could point me to some reading on the best way to set up a 2 battery system (not for redundancy...but to isolate RX & IGN). And some type of kill switch that can control the IGN power from the radio. The way I have my cub right now, the only way I can kill the IGN is if its on the ground and I can flip the switch. Id prefer to be able to kill the IGN while in air if the need was there, ie broken throttle servo.</p>
Thanks for your help.
Looks like the throttle cable could be steel, if so I would eliminate it and use a non conducting product
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The throttle cable is just that, cable. It runs inside of a plastic sheething, a lot like a control rod tube/guide. the end is secured to the carb with a plasic ball link.</p>
With this being the case...is it ok, or should I replace it. If I should replace it...with what? Thanks</p>
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ORIGINAL: DAN REISS</p>
The kill switches have to be optical. The mechanical ones will couple the ignition interference right into the receiver. The optical line prevents this. It looks like you have a lot of work to do. Keep us posted. Dan.
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I went to the site in the link you provided and looked at the opti-kill. I think I will definitely buy these for this plane (as well as my other 2 gassers i am working on) because I will definitely be going with separate batts for RX and IGN.</p>
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ORIGINAL: AA5BY</p>
ORIGINAL: Taildragger726</p>
Wonder why the BEC is in there?
Me too?</p>
My guess is that it was being set up for some other flight battery and the seller took it out and laid the large JR battery inside and it bounced back to the rear during handling. Such a theory explains why the BEC and why the battery was aft while all the weight was added to the nose.</p>
Most EI units need a 900-1100 mah 4 cell pack. If your cautious and have a history of being attentive to your batteries, one flight battery is fine plus an ignition battery. A four cell pack of that size is ok for a larger plane unless your using 2.4 and if so, a five cell pack has been deemed the standard because of brown outing of the receiver when a lot of servo action takes place. If you don't cycle or watch your batteries carefully, then a dual battery system is a wise choice.</p>
I agree with others when they warn not to assume the JR battery is ok. My history with JR batteries is not as good as yours and I use JR stuff exclusively. It is important to cycle it and prove it's at least 70% of capacity.
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I really had no idea why either. I could understand if it was an electric motor powered plane...but with a gasser, I was sort of confused...thus one of the the reasons for the thread.</p>
As far as teh battery being in the rear of the fuse. It did not just end up back there. It was actually zip tied to a former in the back of the fuse. I had to cut the zip ties to remove it for the picture. Looks like that is where it has always been.</p>
Funny thing to me is that there is a hatch on top of the motor mount box on the firewall that would be an ideal place for the battery/ies. And going with 2 LiFe batts placed inside there...there would have been no need for that much lead added to the front of the plane, if any at all.</p>
Like someone already said above...looks like I have a lot of work to do. Just want to make sure that I do it right.</p>
This weekend I will try and get the plane back out of my trailer and inside and carefully take this electrical system apart plug at a time and will draw a diagram as to the way it is wired. I'll update this thread when I do that. This should take all the guess work out as to what way it "could" be working.</p>
Thanks again for everyones input. Much appreciated!</p>