RE: Laminate Thickness
I had posted a reply to the answers last weekbut apparently my post did not make it through.
Thanks to Magne and Wyowindworks for your response to my question and the ideas you have given me.
"What I have been doing in the past is to lay down the "inside" glass layer on a piece of polythene plastic, and wet it out there.
Then I put the polythene on top of the core material, with the glassed side down, and bag.
(Leave the polythene on the glass until the resin is cured, the polythene sheet can then be peeled off, as the epoxy does not stick to it.)"
Magne,I am not sure I follow what you are suggesting here. What are you using for a core material. If you could walk me through it I'm sure I can grab the idea.
Wyowindworks, I have some questions with regard to your techniques. First, what kind of paint do you use that is resin (polyester)friendly. I have about 30 years experience in the automotive refinsh industry so painting is second nature to me. I agree that gel is heavy and I could save alot of weight by painting, plusputting on graphics would be easier. My thought on the paint in the mold technique is when asecond color was to be applied the tape covering the first color would removeit from the mold because of the wax on the mold surface?
Second, I have abondoned the use of Nida Core for use in the wings, it is a resin sponge! I have obtained some foam that is what I believe to be similar to Rohacell. It is resin resistant and seems to work quite well. It is a green foam that is quite lite. I found a piece that is 1/2 inch thick, I ran it through the band saw and got 3 pieces about 1/8 thick. I did a test layup as follows, 1 layer of 1.4 oz. and then2 layers of 3.2 oz., then the foam and one layer of 3.2 on top, put it in the bag until cured. I can't believe how rigid and light this piece is. It also seems to be very ding resistant. I am going to try a wing layup using this method. When checking the price of Rohacell foam this green foam is less than 1/4 the price and I can get it here in British Columbia.
It also does not absorb resin. With regard to wing layups does my formula sound like it will be adaquatefor a 48" span 10 poundEDF. What is the norm for spars and the material they should be made from. How much of an advantage is carbon cloth in the wing if "S" glass is 80% the strength of CF.
Thanks, Gary