</p><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Hi LionMarshel,
<span style="color: #000080">(Stallion90, Hopefully you can get some ideas from this post as well)</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">220 grit sandpaper should remove the current paint. If it takes too long then try a heavier grit like 180-200 but don’t use anything too rough because it will dig into the wood. The rougher grits are the lower numbers. Most of your work should be 220 and higher.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">According to Dumas’s instructions they suggest 2oz Fiberglass cloth. As for sanding, use 220 grit sandpaper after the boat is glassed to sand off the shiny surface. Then move on to 320-400 just to lightly buff out and smooth the finish to get it paint ready. Sanding down to the glass will require re-filling and more sanding so try not sand too deep.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #000080"><u>
Here are Dumas’s instructions on Fiber glassing:</u></span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #000080">Apply a layer of 2 ounce fiberglass cloth to the exterior of your hull and deck. The wood should be sanded smooth and major gaps and dents filled. Do one surface (i.e ½ of bottom or 1 side) at a time. Cut the fiberglass slightly oversize and brush surfacing resin through the cloth on to the wood. Use only enough resin to do the job. Excess resin can be blotted up with a cloth or paper towel or toilet tissue. When all surfaces have been covered, sand all over, then apply one more coat of resin. When the second coat of resin is sanded you should have a nearly perfect base for paint. The 1/8” square spruce, spray rail may now be cemented to the hull.</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #ff0000">I went onto towerhobbies website and found some useful supplies. You don’t have to order this here but it is to show you the general things needed to do the job and the pricing. Things like mixing cups and epoxy brushes can easily be substituted with things you may have at home. Sandpaper can be found at any hardware store, home depot, or even auto supply stores.</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #ff0000">Hobbico 2 Oz Cloth 1 yard Stock number: LXL492 $5.49</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #ff0000">ZPOXY ODERLESS FINISHING RESIN Stock Number:LXCX58 $13.99</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #ff0000">Great Planes mixing cups Stock Number: LXK360 $2.99</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="color: #ff0000"><span>Great Planes Epoxy brushes Stock Number: LXK 361 $1.39
</span></span><span style="color: #008080">
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...XL491&P=ML</span></div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">*Dumas wrote in the above instructions to glue the square spruce onto the hull after it was glassed. If the spruce was already added, it can be removed with a razor and then sand off any remnants of it. You can find the replacement spruce at a craft store like Michael’s or perhaps a hardware store or even online. I used Midwest 1/8” basswood strips for my boat and then epoxied or resined over them after they were glued in place. This should be done prior to painting.</div><div style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt">Here is a link to the spray rail replacement steps done on my boat for reference.</div>
<span style="font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%">Post # 317 and 318 page 13
The Unofficial home of the Dumas Dauntless </span></p>
www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4688536/mpage_13/key_/tm.htm
I hope this helps you a bit further.
-Rich.