If you can afford to do it, this is probably the best way to find what you need.

This electric flight has so much to learn for everyone. It isn't just a matter of trying something. Unlike glow power, there is no magic "good enough" solution. It does take some calculation, some work in other words, to get things right.

Consider the watts per pound guideline:

You can determine the power requirements of a model based on the ‘Input Watts Per Pound’ guidelines found below, using the flying weight of the model (with battery):

50-70 watts per pound; Minimum level of power for decent performance, good for lightly loaded slow flyer and park flyer models
70-90 watts per pound; Trainer and slow flying scale models
90-110 watts per pound; Sport aerobatic and fast flying scale models
110-130 watts per pound; Advanced aerobatic and high-speed models
130-150 watts per pound; Lightly loaded 3D models and ducted fans
150-200+ watts per pound; Unlimited performance 3D models


So, if you have a plane that weighs in at 25 ounces. That works out to roughly 1.5 pounds. To fly this at sport aviation levels, it will take 1.5 X 110 watts or 143 watts. If you use a two cell LiPo, that's 7.8 volts (nominal). 7.8 volts works out to a battery capable of supplying at least 18 amps. So, a 2000 mah pack is pretty much minimum for this plane, and you have to consider how you want to fly it at that and that's where the C factor comes in.. how long and how much burst power do you want/need? A three cell Lipo will need less current.. but you get the idea, i'm sure.

It's not as simple as just putting a battery on the plane and trying it out. You chance burning up both the motor and the ESC with the wrong selection.

Remember that when making weight measurements (not estimates, unless you know exactly what each component weighs), everything has to be considered: airframe, motor, esc, battery pack, receiver, servos, everything.

Hmmmm... I wonder why I prefer/love glow power? Don't get me wrong.. I fly electrics, but prefer glow.

CGr