Well, let me toss what I'm doing, and why, for discussion (target practice). Going into it, when compared to my earlier experiences flying nitro, my concerns are the amperage requirements of larger digital metal gear servos, especially if one of them stalls. The possibility of that stall pulling the line/buss voltage down to the point where the receiver drops off line is well known, ESPECIALLY when running 4.8 volt packs. I run a switch w/charge jack on each of those packs, adding to amperage handling capabilities of the system as well as adding a redundancy factor at a well known source for troubles (the switches). Power from the switches is run to the regular receiver batt. position, the second to a short Y in the line to the rudder. Regarding ignition power, you should have the ability you shut the engine down remotely, so I spend a bit extra and do that using an ignition battery eliminator circuit that's also capable of shutting the engine down remotely while I'm at it. They aren't that much more than just the remote shut down feature, and there's a couple different ways of doing this (different subject). I power that IBEC from the receiver bus (a Y placed anywhere it's convenient - usually throttle). Regarding radios, not here to slam any radios, but I do get tired of the "it's gatto be Futaba" hype. I believe in life after Futaba, and went Hitec Aurora. I can program it to do anything without a manual, or my glasses. I did that after 20+ years of Futaba ownership while making the switch to 2.4

So simply put, when going gas (26cc+) I go with 2 6v.batteries, supplying power through 2 switches, 20ga (min.) wire everywhere, metal gear servos, and an IBEC for ignition power. It's a very simple system, and supply's the extra power and redundancy to let me sleep at night. These planes are getting big and expensive enough to dent my flying budget, as well as my ego, when they go in. FWIW