I would like to comment about receiver battery voltage on 2.4 Spektrum systems. (I cannot add info on Futaba, hitec etc.) If you use a 4 cell pack on a Spektrum receiver and you excersize all the controls at once, the receiver can go into Brownout or hold. This is the reason I recommend using a 5 cell pack. The brownout/hold is temporary unless the voltage drops down to below (dont quote me on this) 3 volts or so. If the battery state is less than that you will go into LOCK and failsafe mode.

To keep things simple, use a 5 cell nickel metal hydride, LIPO etc that has around 7.5 volts. If you want to add more weight and redundancy you can use a bigger battery or 2 batteries with a regulator. Again this is all personal preference.

The original Poster said he had a Spektrum set-up as do I. I have flown giant scale gas succesfully with my old DX6i and did not encounter any problems using the above mentioned set-up.

I was going to buy the DX8, but they were not available when I went and purchased my DX7. Just read the manual and you will be fine.

Now lets go a little deeper into the DX6i, DX7 and DX8 radio subject.

I can attest that if you do not have your main and remote receiver mounted as per the directions you will at some point encounter a hold or worse. THere are many videos on youtube that show this. Now if you really want to get fancy you can buy the main, remote and 2 more satellite receivers (look on Horizons web site) I dont think you need these unless you want triple redundancy.

If your airplane is built from composites make sure you buy the receiver made for that application. If your airplane is Balsa and monokote etc. the regular setup of the AR7000 is good to go.

Make sure you do a range check at the field with and without the engine running.

The key here is to have adequate receiver battery voltage and to ensure that your main and remote receivers are positioned properly within your fuselage.

Then when you go to the field always have some of the experienced guys take a look at your setup. It is very easy to get tunnel vision and miss something. I have been flying RC since 1984. I always have a couple of guys take a look at a new install to make sure I did not miss anything.

Now talking about vibration. Gas engines do vibrate, but you can minimize the vibrations. Balance your propellor and spinner. Always run your engine with the wings attached. Make sure the engine is timed properly. I will say this. I flew NITRO for years as well. I have flown "quality" gas engines and have not had the so called vibration issues that some seem so worried about. For example I had a Zenoah G-26ei in my T-craft and that engine was worked over by Ralph Cunningham. It turned 9000+ rpm with a APC 17x6 IMAC prop. No vibration issues.

On the airplane I posted the videos on. It is a DLE-55. I use a XOAR 22x8 prop and am seeing 7500+ rpm on the ground and unloaded in the air I am sure it is getting around 8000.

Again no vibration issues.

Here is the bottom line on all of the posts here. MAINTENANCE. Don't just fly your plane and put it away. After you get home do a wipe down and visual inspection of all your servos, connections, gear, engine mounts etc. A little TLC goes a long way. Take care of your equipment and it will take care of you.

There it is in a nutshell.

Glenn Williams