ORIGINAL: Bax
When you said the engine was ''overrevving'', what RPM were you running. If you're running below the mid-12,000's there is no way the engine was over-revved. If you prop the engine for between 11,000 and 13,000 RPM when the engine is leaned to just rich of peak RPM at full throttle, you'll be OK, no matter what propeller you're using. However, the engine will be quite noisy. O.S. suggests rather large propellers to give a low noise profile because many RC fields in Japan have very strict noise regulations.
Ok, I understand that we need to quantify this. I never actually tach my engines, dont even have a tach. I will borrow a tach and an infra red temperature gauge this weekend and revert
ORIGINAL: Bax
Any model engine will become hot enough to cause a severe burn if you touch the cylinder and cylinder head while it's running or just after it's been stopped. It will take several minutes for the engine to become cool enough to touch after stopping.
If the engine will sag in RPM when the aircraft is pitched to the vertical, you're going lean. You have to correct the fuel-flow difficulty. If the engine has an actual problem, it's best diagnosed on a test fixture. There, you can put everything in the open and see how things run.
Actually, touching the engine was just a analogy. Its the same story with the 75ax now and the 55ax earlier. It gets very hot, drops black oil in the exhaust and the compression is so soft you can turn over compression with just a finger on the prop. It wont even start in this condition. Once it cools down compression is back
Since the common factors here are the fuel, airplane and tank, I will replace them. I am brewing 0% castor klotz fuel tomorrow and will put in a Sullivian 14oz flexitank and bubbleless clunk assembly that I had some success with the 55ax earlier. I have already flushed the carb on monday- basically held it under plain alcohol with tubing inserted in both the fuel nipple and needle holes and blew air in all directions. Also pushed a thin blunt throttle wire into the holes to ensure nothing is blocked. Lets see
ORIGINAL: Bax
For cooling, you need to m ake sure that any air entering the cowling actually passed through the fins of the cylinder and cylinder head. If you can see the air outlet when you look into the air inlet, you can be assured that the air is bypassing the cyilnder. The air outlet should be at least 2 times large than the air inlet. In many airplanes, some kind of baffle is needed to direct airflow through the cylinder fins.
There is no cowl right now. Even with the cowl, the engine is mostly outside it
ORIGINAL: Bax
The oil mixture should be 18% by volume of the fuel, and the Klotz 80/20 synthetic/castor is a good oil.
Its 20% oil content- 1l oil in 5l of fuel
ORIGINAL: Bax
Finally, the exact number of turns on the needle valve when you set your engine is completely irrelevant. The engine tunes wherever it tunes. However, changes in the weather from day-to-day can cause significant changes in the needle setting. Even flying from a cool morning to a hot afternoon will require noticeable changes in the needle setting. The needle needs to be double-checked before every flight, even if you only perform the ''pinch'' test or lift the nose of the model to the vertical.
On the .75, you can try 11 x 8 or 9 props, 12 x 6, 7, or 8, even a 13 x 4 or 5 if you want to hover. Keep peak RPM below 13K and you should be fine.
I realise that the number of turns is quite meaningless. I had just given it as a reference.
I didnt know that lower size props could be used on this engine. I have 15x4, 14x8, 14x6, 14x4, 13x6, 13x4. I will report the RPM and temperature with the first first 5.
Do you think the stripped carb screw will be creating any problems? Remember, I have put the screw in with some teflon tape. It doesnt tighten but doesnt come out either. The other screw and carb o-ring are fine
Ameyam