All readers,

Each of us may have a differnt way of doing things.
Perhaps the following method may be useful to someone wanting an easy and accurate method of having all the ribs as should be in a tapered wing either with or without leading edge sweptback.

Fist make a root rib using 1/16" or 1/8" thick ply or pine with its outer face accurate to the airfoil in use.
Then do the wing tip rib similarly.
These two ribs may remain in the wing structure but do not have to be. I usualy leave them in as the two end ribs.

Cut rectangular ribs about 1/16" larger than necessary. Their longer length will go into slots in the leading and trailing edges.

Pile the rectangular raw ribs together (one against the others, no space between them) taking into account any leading edge swetback.

Drill two holes of appropriate size to squeeze them together with two screws, washers and nuts.
Use hand plane or wood chisel (make sure it is sharp) to bring the in between ribs about 1/16" larger than the end ribs, No more than 1/16" to reduce later sanding.

Cut accurately any notches for the wing spars. Use the wing spar material to guage; do not rely on the size the spar pieces are supposed to be (it varies). Example: a 1/4 x 3/8 spar piece is not necessarily accurate. Take into account if the spars have a sweptback. You want the notches to match any sweptback angle of the spars if any.

Yes those angles will change when the ribs are spaced apart in the assembled wing(s) but the difference is not a problem between the ribs and the spars.

Make sure the spars are dead on straight before assembling the wing(s).

Assemble the wing keeping the ribs parallel to the fuselage center line.
Check for flatness or washin or washout if any.
Use a long strip of balsa near the trailing edge to raise the rear ends of the ribs if convenient.
A single tiny drop of CA glue for tacking all future gluing.

Now make (if you do not have already) an absolutely straight piece of pine (or spruce) having a cross section of at least 1" x 2" and about 4 inches longer than the distance between the root and tip ribs.

Glue on the 2" face some 180 or 240 grit sand papercentering it lengthwise and having a length about 2" shorter than the distance from root to end rib.

Glue on some of the same sandpaper the reverse way (grit on the wood) so there is a smooth surface to ride on the end ribs (which already had been made to final dimesions of the airfoil). We do no want those end ribs to be sanded now.The reversed sandpaper willtake into account the thickness of the sandpaper that will bring all the ribs for final dimensions with a traight line root to tip everywehere.
Touch up the root and end rib to the same angle.

Now you know that your covering will touch all the ribs with a proper angle on their contours.
It will also provide a good contact surface if you glue on capstrips on the ribs.

The same long sanding bar can be used to touch up the outer surfaces of capstrips after the end ribs capstrips have been glued on.

I usually do the gluing of the ribs to the spars before installing any capstrips or leading edge or trailing edge sheeting if used (so called D sections of the leading edge to the front spar).

Notice that the CA glue is used only for tacking and is not considered proper gluing. All gluing is done with proper glue of your choice and filleted to increase the contact areas of the joints.

Enjoy your build.

Zor