Jim,

A suggestion/recommendation. When you join the wings, first glass the center section to produce a rock solid center section. Other than the stub spars to support the core in the landing gear area, the Tipo has no cross panel spar so it is important to glass that center area well.

There are different school of thought on this but my preferred method is to use 2-3 layers of cloth in decreasing weight and increasing width. Basically, I join the panels with epoxy (30 min or slower) making sure they are dead level with each other. Before you join them, butt them up at the root and keep the wing tips level to the table. The sight down the wing from the front and back making sure one is not twisted with respect to the other. Parallax help here to sight them equally. If you are happy with the levelness, join them and don't worry too much if the roots are not perfectly matched. So long as they are within less than 1/16" difference, you can sand the joint smooth after the epoxy is cured.

Then, once the center section is sanded smooth, glass the center with 6 oz cloth spanning 3" wide. I use finishing resin for this step and here I do cut it with alcohol to thin it out - after all you're glassing not gluing. Once that is cured, you then can go out to the inner edge of the wheel wells with 2 oz or lighter cloth. I actually use a 2 ply of 3/4 oz cloth to give me a 1.5 oz weight so to speak.

When I do the glassing, I apply masking tape along the edge of where I want the glass to end. Then, once it has been wetted out, I wait for the epoxy to start setting up (about an hour or two - depends on climate) and then take a #11 blade and cut the glass being careful not to go into the sheeting along the inner masking tape line. If you do this at the right time, the masking tape will lift with the excess glass and leave a nice straight line along the edge which you can pat down with an alcohol wet finger to fair it into the wing. I sand all glass in between layers after curing.

This is really still wing construction and I typically leave "finishing" glassing until the model is complete and all radio equipment and engine has been installed. When you get to that stage, you can then proceed to glass the remaining wood on the wing with 0.5 cloth and polycrilic. I don't believe that the poly holds over epoxy so make sure you do a clean job on the center section. Before you glass the wood with poly, you do need to seal it first and sand it out. Good stuff is Minwax sanding sealer but you can also use Hobbico white wood filler watered down and brushed on - the former should be cheaper. Then once everything is sanded smooth and filled as needed (with automotive filler), you can prime the model.

In short, delay finishing glass work until the end.

David.