Sounds like good practice and good use of adhesives to me, especially the part about medium CA at joints. I am a little nervous using CA without the back-up because I've had CA joints give way over time. I use Titebond for many uses, some CA, (more gap-filling than not), and some epoxy, (firewall, gluing the stab/fin etc). There are even a few cases where I'll use Gorilla Glue if I want something that will expand into the area.

I'm no expert, so I only discuss what I have done. For those who are new to building, CA should not be used on wing sheeting, or anything external that is sanded...it won't sand evenly and will leave raised areas. The same is true for epoxie, and Titebond. Don't use them anywhere on the surface than will be visible. There is a product called "Sigment" that is great for wing sheeting, and external joints like balsa blocks to the fuselage that will be sanded smooth later, but it probably is not strong enough for other, (internal/structural) purposes.

In case I forget to mention it later during fuselage construction, DON'T USE TITEBOND, WHITE GLUE ETC for the thin ply fuse doublers...bad things happen to thin plywood in the form of warped doublers that don't adhere...sometimes you learn from experience, (also know as "the hard way"), and sometimes you learn from the less than perfect experiences of others. The Titebond on thin ply isn't "fatal" or anything, it's just not "cool" or advised, since the thin doublers tend to bubble or separate unless held firmly in place till dried. I'm not afraid to laugh at my mistakes, (or ignorance) at times...when I reported what happened when I used Titebond to glue my doublers on the forum, someone "asked" me, (I think it was Andy Kunz), if I dried the glue for a while first before joining, (he knew I hadn't).

Kevin put me on to Sigment. What do others do?