I have a friend who makes CF pushrods. He has told me you need to wrap and crimp the ends with small sections of aluminum tubing to keep the tubes from splitting, or otherwise breaking. He made a couple for me, and I'll post a picture later. You drill the ends for 2/56 or 4/40 fittings depending on the plane size. He personally uses these short external pushrods with the servos mounted on the outside of the plane, (on the fuse wall), for better pattern performance.

These short pushrods reduce the possibility of "play" in the linkages for competition purposes. I'm doing this for my King Altair #4 which had the old nyrod plastic pushrods...(I've learned a few things in the last 5 years), they were braced, but there was still heat expansion "play" within the tubing itself, which eventually introduced rudder "flutter".

The internal elevator pushrod is "elegant". It's neat to see the surfaces moving up and down without an ugly linkage. It is also interesting that Ed kept an OPEN HOLE at the rear fuselage bottom (as described earlier), rather than use a hatch. Even the Taurus kit shows a small hatch held in place with a screw.

Duane