As far as the rod bushings go, bronze is the normal material used with a total clearance (difference in bush bore to crankpin) of about .002" while the small end bush is generally a much closer fit, around .0005" or less. If you make new bushes then don't forget to put a small chamfer in the end of the lower bush that fits against the crankweb to clear the radius ground on the crankpin. If the rod's symmetrical then the chamfer can go either side but if it's not symmetrical then be sure which way the rod fits.

With the bearings you shouldn't be able to feel any play up and down so I'd be fitting a new bearing unless the outer race has spun in the crankcase in which case you're up for a new crankcase . I can't help with clearances or bushes in the pull start area because I'm not familiar with them.

One detail about pinch in engines with a plated brass liner (chrome or nickel) is that brass has a tendency to bell mouth over time so it's not neccessarily wear that reduces the pinch. This bell mouthing appears to be caused by the material used for the cylinder head/head button which usually is just a normal aluminium alloy so has a larger coefficient of expansion than the brass and piston alloy. With the clamping force given by the head screws, this extra expansion of the head drags the top of the liner more than it would normally expand from heat by itself and ends up getting a permanent set over time. That's kind of a guess on my part as to what causes it but the bell mouthing is fairly well known. This doesn't happen with an AAC liner, probably because the alloy can more easily relax to its original size when it cools down.