ORIGINAL: kingaltair
ORIGINAL: billberry189
I really like the suggestion about leaving rib #1 loose until it is time to fit the wing to the fuselage. After all the actual dihedral is determined by the wing tube. The main problem that comes to mind is how to get the spars and leading and trailing edges cut and sanded to the proper length. I suppose trial and inspection repeated over and over will get you there. Then a piece of waxed paper between rib #1 and the fuselage, slip the wing on to the tube and fit it to the #1 rib, followed by glue. Does that sound about right or is there some better way?
Bill
Sometimes with the written word it is hard to gauge the person on the other end, so if I appear defensive, I apologize as well. We are all trying to do exactly as you just said on your post.
The question you raise is probably why I DIDN'T leave it loose, and just went ahead and hoped for the best. If my wing had gone on HIS fuselage, everything would have been fine, but there is always some variation in building.
I don't know. I think ''spot gluing'' W-1 with CA then sheeting the top wing and cutting the spars etc to length with your best guess, (but without gluing anything onto W-1), might be the best way to test fit. If everything is OK, you can go ahead and glue the sheeting/spars/alignment dowels to W-1 from the bottom before doing the bottom sheeting. If it isn't OK, you break the glue spots until you get it right. With Jeff's spacer, it should be very close.
After the bottom sheeting is in place, I remember Kevin and I talking about how to glue any bottom sheeting when you can't get at it. You have to run a ''stream'' of CA down the rib from the L.E. and T.E. while making sure the sheeting is pressed against the ribs. We did this I think with ''gap filling'' CA. You just have to hold it in place long enough for it to take hold...it works pretty well. We also ran a bead of gap-filling CA along the top sheeting once it had dried to make sure it had properly adhered without gaps.
Duane
Leaving it loose is exactly what I did. I left it loose up until i started to sheet the top/bottom. I slid the skeleton of the wing on and trimmed/cut the spars until they fit close and I also turned the W1 around the other way so that the balsa side was up against the fuse. This way you could sand it very easy to make it match the fuse perfect.
As for the sheeting I glued the main spars back to the TE on first and let it dry well. I then used CA medium working from W-1 to the tip doing a bay at a time so that I could hold it as it dried. I use baking soda for accelerator. Works great and is a lot cheaper, safer, and quicker than liquid accelerators. Just sprinkle some on the CA and it is almost immediate curing. Be careful it really gets hot.
Thanks:
Kevin Clark