Guys,

thanks for the various feedback.

I'll comment a bit on my experience so far. My initial post might have been a little misleading as it may have come across as what my "plan" was for the finishing of the model - in fact, I am (was) already done with most of the products mentioned so some of your recommendations are well noted but, as it were, it is too late now - they have been used and, to the extent I have used them, seem to work well.

Initially I didn't want to mix brands or products as it is simply easier to use a single "system" who's compatibility is known. DC primers and paint would have worked but, as mentioned, I was unable to find a white I was pleased with in the five different automotive perfect match (auto brand specific) colours available. As a result, I proceeded to prep the model with automotive based primers and then did the basecoat with a one stage "appliance" epoxy based white which is actually very close to a covering white I wanted to match (MK Jet White). MK white has a "bluish" hue which makes it colder than most pre mixed (i.e., non matched) whites out there. This is understandable in that white's are more pleasing when slightly warmer but the colder MK hue provides better contrast with many of the other covering colours.

Relating my experience on the primers: first, DC primers were top quality - not like a two part catalyzed primer but much easier to apply (from an environmental conditions requirement) and probably less expensive. The base sanding primer provides a good layer for subsequent "adhesive" layers and sands at a very similar rate to fillers such as Bondo providing a classic smooth "mixed tone mess" for the second layer filler primer. This last primer is a polyester resin based primer which, like many who use polyester for glass work know, sands exceptionally well both wet and dry. Sanding wet is by far the preferable approach as it does tend to clog up sand paper but if an initial "cut down" of a particular area is needed due to some filler used, dry sanding is also an option. Of course dry sanding fillers such as Bondo produces a real mess so overall I did all 90% of all sanding wet - even if it might have taken a little longer.

Because the model was nicely prepped with the polyester filler primer I felt I could then proceed to try out the single stage epoxy based white. I was keen on trying it because it 1) offered a nice colour match and 2) because it was low cost (~$6 can I believe). But, again, since it is an epoxy resin based paint, I felt that it probably was not going to be a good idea to spray this directly over the smooth prepped polyester primer. As we know, polyesters over epoxies don't work that well (if at all) but the reverse works nicely. So I decided to shoot the polyester prep with an epoxy based "tack" primer in order to provide a surface for the white basecoat. The instructions on the appliance epoxy don't state that several days are required for it to flash and in fact, it dry's to the touch in 30 minutes (although I don't "touch"... [:-]) and cures in 24 hrs at 20 deg C. For peace of mind and to insure it was fully flashed, I waited 40-48 hrs between applications and wet sanding and applied the basecoat in three sessions. I was very pleased with the coverage and the results but it takes a little more effort than if one was using a urethane or an enamel. I'd say it compares in some respects with water borne paint except is has a higher solids content and of course, if flowed on, dries to a reasonable gloss level. The only issue with this paint, as can be expected, is that the hard gloss solids must be sanded down if one is to recoat otherwise the subsequent layers won't adhere - common sense. There is however no need to wait 7 days between coats and after 1-2 days of curing post wet sanding there is barely a detectable epoxy odour to the surface - nice. One of the strengths of epoxy based paint - low odour.

In short, I was and am quite pleased with the results of the epoxy white as a basecoat. I have since applied one layer of trim colour which comes out of a "third brand" product called "Rust Check". I believe this is a Canadian brand products but similar oil based "rust proof" enamels exist under other brand names in the US. I have been using light coats of white Krylon primer under each base coat layer including the red "Rust Check" trim which I shot a few days ago. It has proved to be a good foundation for color adhesion. The red paint is not an epoxy based paint and goes on quite nicely straight out of a regular tipped can (if memory serves) - no major splats or runs. It is quite tolerant of re-coating without running being relatively viscous and builds up quite quickly. I have now used it in three different areas and it took a single application to achieve a consistent pigment colour that held up well to fairly vigorous wet sanding needed to cut down the high gloss it leaves behind and to smooth out the paint boundaries.

I am not nearing the metallic paint phase of the project and as mentioned in my first post I was (still need to do a couple more tests) somewhat concerned about the viability of an acrylic lacquer atop an epoxy basecoat. In retrospect I don't think this will be a problem as acrylic's are pretty tolerant provided the surface is fully flashed. On the other hand, the concern of course has more to do with the "lacquer" part of the equation which implies mixing of solvents which may not be compatible but I'm quite optimistic. If it can be shot atop polyester resin based primers I'm doubtful that it would have problems on top of an epoxy based layer. Still, for safety and adhesion the underlying surface will be lightly primed with what I'm beginning to think of as a "universal primer" - the Krylon white.

Despite the apparent myriad of products discussed and, to some extent, applied to the model, weight gain has been surpisingly low. I was interested in seeing what particular product would have the most significant impact and so far it is the polyester resin based filler primer which, having filling properties, has the highest particulate density so far. The white epoxy and red enamel do add their share of weight but the majority of it is contained in their flowing gloss structures which, after being sanded down, actually loose a great deal of their mass. In the end, I suspect it will be the filler primer and the final clear top coats that will incrementally add the most weight. For this reason I have been quite emphatic with wet sanding every layer between coats.

We will see what milage I get from the metallic layers and how they respond to 1500 grit sanding. I will go much lighter on those layers even though I'm not that particularly interested in their metallic texture - it is more about their hue. I believe they can be dulled to a nasty look though if over sanded or otherwise exposed to water prior to fully flashing.

For the next project I may look into a compressor system (thanks for the suggestions Bryan) as I'm keen on using water borne products such as Auto Air as far as possible including glassing with products such as Minwax Polycrilic. Not as hard or fast as finishing epoxy but healthier in the long run and less critical in application - one can practically slosh that stuff on without ill result... [8D]

So that's the progress report. Once again, thanks for all your input - it is being stored for future projects and or used for this one. I may well go with the 2K Spray Max urethane clear for the final touch.

Whew! That was long.

David.