WWMB... <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ">And to note, he could have used a smaller shim. Think geometry &amp; triangles, and levers too. By Pah-Co's measurements, the ring is ~roughly~ 5.5" in diameter, or 14mm (mean of inner/outer measurements) So if he shimmed only the back edge of the ring at .75mm, then every 7mm further out (2.75") the lift would be 50% more (angle, guys, angle) and at 14mm out from the ring-edge, its lifted a good 1.5mm. He could have used a smaller shim to get the same .75mm lift at the rear of the turret to clear the grilles.</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; background-color: rgb(251, 252, 255); ">

I must have been late, read cm where the mm is bold. I got 143 mm or 14.3 cm.

I thought about just shimming the back... but the turret ring needs the support of the hull deck to prevent wobble. Just adding the rectangle blocks under the whole assembly left way too much slop and the turret dragged worse than doing nothing. The ring I made was nessasary to prevent this slop.

Shimming objects at an angle is always tricky, you need many shims of slightly different thickness placed just right or the whole thing can be warped by the fastiners. Cutting tapered shims will sometimes help, I once made a shim that went from 0 to 1 3/8 inch over 11 feet, but even that adds a lot of complex issues to solve. When ever possable, shim stuff out parallel to the starting surface and you will save yourself much trouble.

Besides, I was woried that it would make my nice tank look cockeyed.<br type="_moz" /></span>