<div>I have been modeling since the 60’s – starting with doped silkspan and silk covered controlline planes. In the 80’s, after I started R/C, I tried Monokote on a few models. It was quicker and looked pretty good. Although I did not like the “plastic toy” look that it gave my planes, I have seen Monokote coverings done by some real craftsmen around here that are absolutely gorgeous – it’s just that having built only two Monokote models I have never developed those skills.
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Back to the subject: How to paint instead of monokote
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I have used and am familiar with the following products and will share my thoughts. Keep in mind that these are only my thoughts and are certainly open to comments, questions, and emotional outbursts.</div><div></div><div>
Fabric:</div><div>Koverall – Great product, lightweight dacron fabric, fairly easy to get, heat shrinkable after gluing to framework, strong and resists damage well.</div><div>Stits Poly-Fiber – Another great product, lightweight dacron fabric (although it seems a little heavier than Koverall – I could be wrong here – I haven’t weighed it). It must be glued to the framework, heat shrunk, etc., just like Koverall. A real advantage of the Stits Lite is that it is supplied in long, wide rolls which make laying out and cutting the the various cover patterns a lot easier to figure out, especially if you are covering a large plane. </div><div><font size="+0"></font></div><div>
Fabric Attachment:</div><div>Nitrate Dope – Works well, easy to brush on. I use it in a pinch when I am out of more traditional adhesives, especially on tail group surfaces. I have heard that it is not fuel proof, but I have no experience with the problem.</div><div>Sig Stix-It – Good product but a little hard to find (like most Sig products although I hear of their return to the marketplace). If you coat the edges of the framework with Stix-It, the directions say that it can be heat activated to adhere the fabric. Since it is a solvent based product, I just embed the fabric into a wet coat of the product and use a little solvent (MEK) to help the glue penetrate the fabric.</div><div>Stits Poly-Tak – Since I started using this product on model airplanes, I believe that I will always keep a can on hand. It seems almost identical to Stix-It, except that it is very easy to get. I apply it the same way as I did Stix-It. One other use that I have found for it is for fuelproofing engine compartments and other components that need to be fuelproofed. When fuelproofing, I just thin it with MEK until it brushes easily. It dries very quickly, so a re-coat can be done almost as soon as you finish the first coat. Let dry overnight before use.</div><div></div><div>
Dopes: </div><div>Nitrate Dope – Used to seal the fabric. The first coat is usually brushed on and the second coat is usually sprayed. I used to use Sig dopes until they became unavailable. After Sig, I switched to Brodak – good products, great service and available at my LHS.</div><div>Stits Poly-Brush – I’m not real sure what this product is, but it seems to be identical both in function and use as nitrate dope. Anyway, I use it the very same way. One really nice thing about Poly-Brush is that it has a slight red tint to it making it very easy to see where you have already been. If any of you have tried to apply clear nitrate to fabrics, you know the problem of trying to figure out where you have or have not already applied the paint. Like nitrate, the first coat is usually brushed on and the second coat is sprayed. Don’t worry about brush marks with the first coat because it seems to be self-leveling. Also, brushing seems to seal the fabric better than spraying and does a better job of eliminating pin holes.</div><div>Butyrate Dope – After the fabric is sealed with Nitrate or Poly-Brush, then begins the build-up of color coats. Again, I used to use Sig dopes, but switched to Brodak as mentioned above. I usually spray at least two coats of color. Yes, the fabric weave will show through slightly with only two coats. Multiple coats and wet sanding with 400 grit in between coats will eliminate this, but is only necessary for “best of show” quality. I usually spray a coat of clear butyrate over everything after I am finished with the colors for a high gloss. I might mention that butyrate dope is sensitive to blushing if sprayed in high humidity. This can be eliminated be adding retarder to the paint when spraying or just wait until the next day and spray a coat of dope thinner over the surface – the blush will go away like it was never there. Butyrate is fuel proof.</div><div>Stits Poly-Spray – I think this is butyrate dope with an aluminum pigment and can be applied directly after the Poly-Brush. The nice thing about this is the aluminum pigment. It gives a great silver color to the plane and makes a terrific base (or primer – so to speak) for additional color coats. Usually, you will need only one coat of this, but if you want to hide the fabric weave, this is where you can spray then wet sand as many times as you wish in order to get the look that you want.</div><div>Stits Poly-Tone – This is just butyrate dope. They have a nice selection of colors as well as clear. I usually apply two coats followed by a clear coat as mentioned above.</div><div></div><div>
Instead of Butyrate or Poly-Tone color coats, I have also used a Stits product called Aero-Thane. It is a two-part polyurethane paint and takes a little skill to use it correctly. If you use something like this, you will be really impressed with the finish. Again, it’s a little pricey and I would probably not use it on anything other than a “show quality” plane.</div><div></div><div>
You will find other threads in RCU about using latex paints, Rustoleum, polyurethane varish, etc. I have never used these, but their use seems intriguing, their results can be amazing, they are easy to come by (Lowe’s, Home Depot, etc.), and economical.</div><div></div><div>
There are many good products on the market for finishing a model. Although it would be hard for me to recommend any in particular, it would seem that a beginner to fabrics would be hard pressed to find a better supplier than Stits Lite for your finishing supplies. They have everything that you need for finishing your model – from balsa fillers to the final coat. Their company is a spin-off of a company that manufactures finishing products for the aviation industry. They have great product support, application instructions, and can ship almost anything immediately. After you have used them on a project or two, you will have developed the skills to try some of the other suppliers and develop your own methods of covering and finishing. Just look around this website – there are almost as many ways to cover as there are members. Do what works for you and what you are comfortable with.</div><div></div><div>
Charles</div>