OK... I guess I should qualify/expand on that.

It's not that I TOTALY distrust any electronics... but it kind of goes back to my comment above.... "Why add something that is not needed?" By removing the regulator, you remove a potential failure point. Also... a regulator, by nature, is a failure point. In most "Hobby Grade" regulators, you use a transistor, and pulse it, so the "apparent" or "Seen" voltage is where we want it. So... you are basically taking a switch, and turning it on and off fast enough to control to voltage. The regulator now has to watch the voltage, as the current is changed, to maintain the proper voltage. This causes a 2 fold problem. 1) your voltage will sag as you approach the max current of the system. 2) As you approach max current... you are generating heat. (That is wasted power, and it's hard on the transistors)


With all that said... most good companies (like the one that makes the Matchbox) they over build. So if they say it's good for 10 amps... in reality... it's probably good for 15a. That way, it will run cool, and have a long life. But, some of the not so reliable companies will say "Good for 10 amps", but in reality, it can only take a 10 a blast for a short time, and that you are operating close to max most of the time.

I will say this... all of my small electric models run off the BEC of the ESC, and in all my years of playing with RC... I've only had one failure. (My T-rex 450 shut down in flight) In this case... I used a Castle 5 amp regulator, to solve the problem. (so I'm not 100% anti-regulator) But in a big model, that I don't need to try and save a few oz of weight... then why not just use a good battery, and not worry about a regulator?? (NiMh, NiCd, or Life/A123)


I'm not sure if you saw my thread on "I took a sick day, and look what I built"... but in that thread, I showed my quickly built Data Terminal for my AT-180 engine. So... I hope that would qualify me to have a reasonable opinion of electronic design. (you can see it here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10776422/tm.htm )


So... I guess I should say... "Use the least amount of electronics possible to achive your goal." AND... with the JR/Spektrum power safe RX... it already has a large operating window, and a "Fail on" switch... with redundant, isolated power.

Just my 2 cents.