The fiber-glassing is progressing, but slowly. Yup, resin is interesting stuff…….allow me to ramble for a bit.

After three coats of resin to the wing on top of the applied fiberglass, I’m finding that there are still too many unsatisfactorily filled areas (the resin is very willing to tear/shear when using a squeegee, and when wiped on when first mixed, will actually orange-peel a bit as it thickens). I’m confident that I sanded sufficiently prior to applying the glass, and know that I’m sanding sufficiently to remove all excess resin, as I’ve not added a single gram in weight since applying the first coat of unthinned resin (bare wing at 669 grams, ‘glassed wing, followed by one coat of resin, sanded, weighs 791 grams (4.3oz added)). That is to say that the last two coats of resin have added no weight, as the wing still weighs 791 grams.

I’m going to try filling just the remaining low spots, a quick sand to ensure that they are at least to level or above, another complete coat, then (hopefully) a final sand.

I’m finding that the resin consistently gets thicker from the moment that it’s mixed (doesn’t suddenly “kick” like a quality epoxy will), and I have to modify my method of application while coating a larger area. I’m glad that I ‘glassed the wing first, as straighten out my learning curve on the fuselage would have been more painful.

David/Matt,

I do own an Airbrush and compressor, and would not hesitate to make an investment in a larger automotive type gun if needed. I’m still reading about Auto-Air, and it does seem that they are more aligned to the finishing of this project when compared to using a product that is intended to paint a boat (System 3). Both have their advantages and draw-backs.

I was drawn to the Nelsons (System3) primarily due to it being fuel-proof and being able to start applying the Primer in the basement with a brush mid-January, but the seeming incompatibility with finer work (ie, actually getting a nice finish directly from the paint gun, and needing to roughen all surfaces prior to repainting) makes me ask the question here.

Auto-Air seems significantly easier to obtain a nice finish, but I’m concerned with the durability aspect with only a clear coat. Can anybody speak to the “fuel-proof-ness” of the Auto-Air when a chip/crack occurs in the clear coat? It is an automotive paint, so I’d suspect some level of toughness.

I plan to keep the paint scheme fairly simple, and somewhat in keeping with the time period. However, I suspect that I will push my luck a bit with some small personal detail just to try it.

Thanks for the help and compliments; I’m giving it my best.

Doug