ORIGINAL: DougC1
The fiber-glassing is progressing, but slowly. Yup, resin is interesting stuff…….allow me to ramble for a bit.
After three coats of resin to the wing on top of the applied fiberglass, I’m finding that there are still too many unsatisfactorily filled areas (the resin is very willing to tear/shear when using a squeegee, and when wiped on when first mixed, will actually orange-peel a bit as it thickens). I’m confident that I sanded sufficiently prior to applying the glass, and know that I’m sanding sufficiently to remove all excess resin, as I’ve not added a single gram in weight since applying the first coat of unthinned resin (bare wing at 669 grams, ‘glassed wing, followed by one coat of resin, sanded, weighs 791 grams (4.3oz added)). That is to say that the last two coats of resin have added no weight, as the wing still weighs 791 grams.
I’m going to try filling just the remaining low spots, a quick sand to ensure that they are at least to level or above, another complete coat, then (hopefully) a final sand.
I’m finding that the resin consistently gets thicker from the moment that it’s mixed (doesn’t suddenly “kick” like a quality epoxy will), and I have to modify my method of application while coating a larger area. I’m glad that I ‘glassed the wing first, as straighten out my learning curve on the fuselage would have been more painful.
David/Matt,
I do own an Airbrush and compressor, and would not hesitate to make an investment in a larger automotive type gun if needed. I’m still reading about Auto-Air, and it does seem that they are more aligned to the finishing of this project when compared to using a product that is intended to paint a boat (System 3). Both have their advantages and draw-backs.
I was drawn to the Nelsons (System3) primarily due to it being fuel-proof and being able to start applying the Primer in the basement with a brush mid-January, but the seeming incompatibility with finer work (ie, actually getting a nice finish directly from the paint gun, and needing to roughen all surfaces prior to repainting) makes me ask the question here.
Auto-Air seems significantly easier to obtain a nice finish, but I’m concerned with the durability aspect with only a clear coat. Can anybody speak to the “fuel-proof-ness” of the Auto-Air when a chip/crack occurs in the clear coat? It is an automotive paint, so I’d suspect some level of toughness.
I plan to keep the paint scheme fairly simple, and somewhat in keeping with the time period. However, I suspect that I will push my luck a bit with some small personal detail just to try it.
Thanks for the help and compliments; I’m giving it my best.
Doug
Doug,
3 coats of fiberglass resin is more than typical. Have you weighed components before and after? You should try to do that to get a good idea of how much you are really putting on. Hopefully this suggestion isn't too late. Beware of building heavy wings
The guns I use are fairly inexpensive HVLP type with about an 0.8 mm to 1.2 mm nozzles. That's "high volume low pressure"....You get pretty good atomization with only about 25 psi of air and for larger surfaces I will go as large as 1.2 mm on the nozzle. Puts out more paint at the same pressure, give or take. To me, there is little need to use the expensive guns such as Sata Minijet. Sure these are great guns but I've learned to use the lesser guns just fine. Spray on a piece of cardboard first to figure out the settings before committing to your work. And don't be afraid to use thinner in your paint. For our application, an extra 50% of thinner works just fine and produces a thinner, lighter coat
Another suggestion if I may...since you haven't yet laid down the glass on the fuse, you might consider bedding it with epoxy clear paint from Klass Kote. BTW- their epoxy primer is terrific stuff and feathers beautifully. The primer will accept pretty much any top coat you wish to spray on it
I was talking with Bob Hunt at Christmas and he told me of another water based paint that he really likes a lot. It's DuPont Chromax. This is a polyester paint (similar base to mylar which is what monokote is made of ). Bob said that you can water this stuff 100% easily. It's expensive at 60$ a pint but produces superior results according to Bob.
Not certain of how fuel resistant either Nelson, DuPont CHromax or AutoAir/Createx are. These are all water carrier paints, polyurethane, polyester, acrylic base, in that order. They are gasoline resistant but yours is a glow application I think.
I