ORIGINAL: grizzdaddy
the battery is a 4.8volt 1500mah battery. the voltage show 5.03 but with a 2.0a draw with tester it went down to 3.5 .
grizzdaddy, it sounds like you might have one of those Hanger Nine Digital Variable Load Voltmeters. If not I certainly recommend such. I keep one on each of 3 worktables, and one in my flightbox with a couple NIB hanging on the wall. At the field I also suggest that your name and address sticker is on the back.
Personally I don't like the light type switch harnesses as they are very shoddily built. I trust my H-9 Voltmeters.
They have the .5, 1, and 2amp load functions. Going flying without one can be dangerous to the flying machine. Maybe I missed it but do you cycle your battery.
Any 4 cells of Nicads, Nimah will charge to 5.5 or about but drop off to 5.0 or about fairly quickly. 2,0 amp load is a bit much for the basic 4 analog servo airplane. Most of my models are well within the limitations of regular analog servos up to 90 0z. torque, mostly in the 50-75 range. If you have DIGITAL servos, remember that they IDLE at about the same current draw that an anolog works at.
This is one "L" of a difference in how a battery holds up. When the digitals first hit the scene and all those folks that just had to have the latest thing, went out and placed
digitals in all positions including throttle and retract landing gear even for air systems,

I just stood by and watched the carnage and laughed at the numerous reasons they found to explain their losses. OTOH the 3D and IMAC crowd needs those high output servos, but most quickly learn the ropes. The sport flier does not, but so many just have to keep up with the Jonses. Their choice and it makes "no never mind to me". Just so they crash on the OTHER side of the field. BTW I fly some sport scale up to 101" w/span with gas burner engines. Analog is fine.
Whatever you want someone will sell it to you. Sounds like you also know how to solder. It can be done. Best of luck there young fellow!