RE: Quick question on Solder Clevis
Goodness yes, it's strong enough! A silver soldered joint is about as strong as you can get. There are folks who will tell you that Stay-Brite is not silver solder, okay, it's silver bearing solder. But it's strong as all bejeezes. I use soldered links on 4-40 for everything up through 1.20 size pattern and quarter scale stuff. The only reason I don't use it for anything bigger is because I don't build any bigger.
As for soldering it, I used a torch for years with hit or miss results and I never could get it to work with a soldering iron. Turned out the problem was too much heat from the torch and not enough heat from a small soldering iron. CombatPigg is right, use as little heat as you can get away with and still get the stuff to flow. I finally bought a good 45 watt Weller soldering iron and now I can solder clevises as well as large music wire for cabanes and such. I've heard that a 65 watt is even better. But the little iron you have for electronics just isn't going to cut it.
If you absolutely must use a torch, be very careful not to overheat. The flux will boil off and then the solder will bead up and roll off. If you see any signs of glow in the music wire, forget it. Throw them away and start over. You won't get it to stick at those temps and you've just lost the temper anyway so now you've got soft wire.
As for Z bends, you couldn't pay me enough. There's no accuracy there. Ever see a perfect Z bend? Ain't no such thing. The corners are round and that means loss of centering precision.
I like your choice of engine. You're going to have to report back on how it does. I've got a brand new in box Picco .60 RE with the original pipe that is just waiting for the right pattern plane to come along. I take it out every now and then to drool on it.
Dave
papapapapapa......omm mau mau papa omm mau mau.... Oops, sorry. I forgot who I was!