I've always had good results with clear monocote. The best way to apply it is to use a straight edge in the slot similar to the photo you have from JP to keep it properly aligned. Use your iron set real low so it will just barely activate the adhesive and tack it in place every 1/8" or so. With the iron still set real low, finish ironing it in place. This method will avoid air bubbles. Then turn the iron up to normal monocote temps of 260F or so and go over it all again.
Another option is Blenderm tape, a 3M product. It can be a little tricky to use because it grabs like crazy and it's stretchy. I keep it attched to the roll while I'm applying it and use a bondo spreader to push it into place one side at a time. By that I mean, do the aileron side first and then do the TE of the aileron cutout second. It may take a couple tries before you get the hang of it. I think Dubro packages Blenderm as a hinging tape for foamies. It's very flexible and lasts forever. I personally prefer clear monocote but have used both methods with great results. I normally use the monocote for covered wings and stabs and Blenderm for the rudder so I won't have to put a hot iron on the painted rudder post on my fuse.
With the composite surfaces you're dealing with, Blenderm might be the better choice.
Hope this helps!
Verne Koester
ORIGINAL: cmoulder
Thanks, gents! Good advice.
J-P I cannot find the Dave Brown product on this side of the pond but I will find an alternative.
I got the front motor mount installed today, and the elevator servo leads, and made some well-placed holes in the fuse for servo leads and air venting.