I need pretty basic help setting up an full size electric patternship.
I have been having quite bad lucks with it so far.
What just happened is ICE HV2 80A esc burned up as I started a test.
The white line shows burn mark and this is the motor side.
There is a very good suspect for the problem. I forgot to insulate the 3 lines from the ESC and they could have short circuited.
Now the question is, even if they were in contact, does the ESC supply power when transmitter was at throttle-cut position ?
I need to know if this could be a defective part or purely my fault.
Another bad luck that I had earlier was Hobbywing's PENTIUM-80A-HV also burned up during a test.
Had an ampmeter connected to see how much juice is going in, and ESC burned up at about 65A (when ESC should run 80A continuously.)
I have been thinking it's definitely a defect, but then I recently was told it better not go above 65A.
In case both failures were my fault, what ESC do you recommend.
My set up is as below.
Neu F3A-1 motor -
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore...roducts_id=234
Turnigy nano 5000mah (two in series)-
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=20742
ICE esc (now dead) -
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=10_24&a mp;products_id=50
Hobbywing esc (now dead) -
http://www.hobbywing.com/product_show.asp?id=196 (this maybe a wrong link since pic is different from actual part)
and a separate battery for receiver.
BTW, ICE burned at an instant when batteries were connected. I connected batteries in series first then connect the set to esc (thinking one by one may give wrong voltage info)
Hobbywing setup ran for a while and as I gradually increase the throttle endpoint (using DX8), it burned up as it reached 64 or 65amp. What I'm saying is, it didn't run for a while at that amperage.
It only took a second or two after reaching that current.
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And a theoretical side question.
As I researched, C rating multiplied by battery capacity gives amperage which in my case 35c x 5000mah = 175A (2 in series)
then ESC is either 100A or 80A, then motor is rated at 80A.
To me it looks like the setup is "bottle-necked" increasing a risk of burning parts. Wouldn't it make more sense battery amperage is lowest while ESC and motor A are higher ?
If ESC is fully open and let all 175A thru the setup, it'll fail everything, wouldn't it ? Maybe this is why I was told to be conservative and stay below 65A.... then, what's a point of getting a nice motor and high C batteries ?
Thanks in advance for the help.