Hi Guys,
I have a RCGF 15cc gas engine...but since I had two RCG 20cc engines and the physical size and weight is almost the same, decided to go with the 20cc gas engine. I believe this model will have a nice vertical presintation... : ) ... nothing like cubic inches to add climb rate to any model. I just wonder how the torque will effect the model with a 17x6 prop. When I broke in my ST G90 on a .40 size ultra stick...the vertical acceleration was outragious...but the torque was something to care for when adding power. Ugly sticks have powerful rudders and I just got used to using my rudder thumb when I had the G90 on board.

My 5" wheels, 17x6 props and new smaller tail wheel assembly are inbound and should be here by months end. I could have gotten them here sooner...but paying more for shipping then the flippen things costs is a bit to much for my budget. Shipping is always an issue here...and patience. It will arrive soon enough and until then, I'll run the engine a bit more...this time with the wing attached. I've other models that need my attention and will get busy until the new parts make it here. I'm not in a rush to fly it...but do look forward to the day. My Airtronics 10G Tx was sent in for an update and I will not fly anyway until it gets back to me.

I used plain old 4/40 wire rods (cut from 36" long rods-12" 4/40 rods are not long enough), for the tail brace wires. I went to Radio Shack and bought pre-tinned connectors, the one with no plastic covering-with the screw hole in the middle-w/a wire connetion tab. I fit the wire into the slot/tab and just silver soldered the wire to them. I made the top rudder connector first-screwed into place, for flight, then moved the wire to where I wonted to place the outboard stab connection, and cut the wire. Then I marked how the tab was to be set on the wire...then just soldered the tab to the wire-after removing it from the model. You will need to bend the tabs a bit to fit the angles of the wires to the stab, from the rudder...but Its really quite simple to do...and make sure you have the proper screws and hardware on hand for the five attachment points. I've done this on my models for years and it works. It gives you something to hold on to and also beefs up the tail feathers a bit. I used 4/40 cap head screws, washers, lock washers and fiber lock nuts...double saftied. I have a good collection of hardware on hand...so I just go to the cap head screw length that works best and attach the goodies. 3/4" long cap head screw for the top of the rudder and 1/2" for the stab connections. #2 washers, lock washers and 4/40 fiber lock nuts.

As soon as I get this model ready for flight, I'll let send you more pictures of the model.

I used different main landing gear then came with the kit. This gear is a bit heavyer then the kit supplied main gear and not easy to bend or reshape. I did add my rubberband mod to my landing gear and it does help with your less then perfect landings and helps keep the ground from sneeking up and causing prop damage on your model. I started this up in Alaska, and works wonders with rough landing fields. Even though I fly off of pavement, our field is note worthy for gusty and windy conditions. It can go from dead calm to 15 kts wind in a heart beat...the tropical trade winds can be tricky here. We also fly next to old WWII Corsair reventments and the revetments play hell with the winds. So strong landing gear sure helps in gusty cross wind days. Landing gear issues are a common problem at our field...guys are always messing with their landing gear, landing gear attachments and wheels. I also like to do touch and goes...so I beef up all my landing gear and have at it. I wore out three sets of wheels on my ultra stick .40...and two engines...before a big bush up and grabbed my model...may it rest in peace.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui