ORIGINAL: Zor
Well _ _ _ no one mentioned my method.
I have no glue coming to the hinge at all.
I drill the hole right through. If it has to be a dead end like in all solid wood then I also drill a 1/16'' dia hole at the bottom of the hinge hole.
The idea is to have an outlet for the glue.
I apply the glue into the hole like someone said with a small rod. I do not use toothpicks that breaks. I use a smal wire or a straightened paper clip and swirl the glue all around the inside of the drilled hole. I then apply glue on the stem of the hinge to about 1/8'' away from the pin (axis) and remove all surplus on the hinge.
When inserting the hinge the surplus goes out the vent hole or the open end if drilled through.
Careful using oil _ _ _ oil has the affinity to spread rapidly and you may end up with a shaped glue around the saw tooths without adhesion.
If the wood expands a bit then the hinge can slip right out. Vaseline is better but may not penetrate well intothe hinge.
I figure a method without any lubricant and without any glue squeezing out at the hinge axis is preferable.
Zor
I actually welcome the G/G pushing it's way to the hinge line, this way I know the G/G has swelled around all the barbs and I can rest assure that I won't lose a surface during a high energy maneuver. Most of the stuff I design, build, and fly is very large with top speeds of over 115 mph, and with some flight control surfaces exceeding 300 sq. in. The ganged servos driving these large surfaces are applying upwards of 1800 oz. of torque per surface so I cannot afford to hope I have enough adhesive on any bond line area, I must to know for a fact. As I stated in an earlier post; I have performed pull testing to failure utilizing Robart hinges G/G and the methods of installation I specified in that earlier post. If those that are going to fly slow lazy relaxing type aircraft then just about any method of installation will work just fine and there is nothing wrong with that at all, but if you are going to fly high performance...
Bob