ORIGINAL: sensei
ORIGINAL: Zor
Well ___no one mentioned my method.
I have no glue coming to the hinge at all.
I drill the hole right through. If it has to be a dead end like in all solid wood then I also drill a 1/16'' dia hole at the bottom of the hinge hole.
The idea is to have an outlet for the glue.
I apply the glue into the hole like someone said with a small rod. I do not use toothpicks that breaks. I use a smal wire or a straightened paper clip and swirl the glue all around the inside of the drilled hole. I then apply glue on the stem of the hinge to about 1/8'' away from the pin (axis) and remove all surplus on the hinge.
When inserting the hinge the surplus goes out the vent hole or the open end if drilled through.
Careful using oil ___oil has the affinity to spread rapidly and you may end up with a shaped glue around the saw tooths without adhesion.
If the wood expands a bit then the hinge can slip right out. Vaseline is better but may not penetrate well intothe hinge.
I figure a method without any lubricant and without any glue squeezing out at the hinge axis is preferable.
Zor
I actually welcome the G/G pushing it's way to the hinge line, this way I know the G/G has swelled around all the barbs and I can rest assure that I won't lose a surface during a high energy maneuver. Most of the stuff I design, build, and fly is very large with top speeds of over 115 mph, and with some flight control surfaces exceeding 300 sq. in. The ganged servos driving these large surfaces are applying upwards of 1800 oz. of torque per surface so I cannot afford to hope I have enough adhesive on any bond line area, I must to know for a fact. As I stated in an earlier post; I have performed pull testing to failure utilizing Robart hinges G/G and the methods of installation I specified in that earlier post. If those that are going to fly slow lazy relaxing type aircraft then just about any method of installation will work just fine and there is nothing wrong with that at all, but if you are going to fly high performance...
Bob
Good morning Bob,
I am sure that many readers appreciate to read about your method of installing Robarts' hinges.
No doubt many folks like to use swelling G/G (Gorilla Glue) like you do.
Visualizing "what is going on" we must make sure the holes are not drilled oversize. The hinge should slip in the hole wihout any looseness. Then the G/G can expand only along the length of the drilled hinge hole. If there is no vent as I described in my method then the glue can only come back toward the rotation axis and for sure you need "anti adhesive" to prevent solidly jamming the hinge. You still have to clean up any glue that has swelled or simply been forced out of the dead end hole when inserting the hinge(s). I saw Jim in the video having to do that.
I do not have this situation by providing for the glue to come out of the vent and do not have to clean up at the hinge line. I still have glue curing all the way to the edge of the drilled hole but not on the swiveling part. No cleaning of cured glue needed.
Of course when applying the glue in the holes we have to make sure there is glue everywhere on the walls of the drilled holes and on the whole surface of the hinge stem but remove any surplus on the stems and keep away about 1/8" from the hinge rotation axis.
Personally I have never used G/G. I use 30 min epoxy that gives me plenty of time to do the work.
I also wipe the hinges stems with solvent to remove any dirt or oily substance like finger grease from handling just before applying the glue on the stems.
There is more than one method suitable to do many jobs.
The readers can choose their own.
Have a great day . . .
Zor