Got official answer from FMA as follows:
Good Day,
You should check the following:
High Voltage - Diode Check, check continuity
D10 - If bad, replace and check U2 for damage
Output Section - Diode Check, check continuity
D15, D16 - If installed, remove. These parts are now DNI
Output Diode (Zenner) - Diode Check
D18 - .34 - .37 / counts up open - If bad, replace ***also check underside of CB for burnt traces if bad***
Micro Processor
U6 - Check pin 1 to ground, should read approx 44k. If bad, not worth fixing charger.
Switch FET's - Diode Check
Q15, Q16 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q1, Q2 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q11, Q12 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Q5, Q6 - .5 / .52 = Good. If bad, both switches must be changed
Zenner Diode Check - Diode Check
Q15 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D2
Q2 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D1
Q11 - .6 / .7 = Good. If bad, change D3
Shunt Check - Diode Check
Q33 - .45 = Good. If bad, replace
Power FET's - Diode Check
Q28 - .5 / Count up high (1.4) If bad, change Q28, Q29, U10
Q29 - .17 / Count up high (1.6) If bad, change Q28, Q29, U10
Regardless of changing components and getting it to work, you have no way to calibrate the charger. This will present a safety hazard and do not recommend this.
NOW I CAN GET TO WORK ON IT !!! :-)
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