ORIGINAL: Alena23
ok everyone sorry for no updates lately. I have been flying about daily and getting the hang. now I can fly without he input of and instructor and I have landed a few times. today I am going to solo. I had a few flight where the instructor never touched the controls so I think I am ready. I did come into land way to fast and high but I cut the engine so I was not able to go around. I hit the ground and bounced like twice before going of into the field and eventually slowing down and crashing but I only bent the nose wheel back. nothing serious at all thank god. I think the trick to landing is comin in at a near stall and starting early and just putting it down. thanks for all the help guys, wish me luck
There is trim on the throttle, you should be able to cut the engine (shut it off) by pulling it down when the throttle is all the way down too at idle. You also should (especially with an OS engine) be able to idle all day long on the ground, throttle up and not have any hesitation, properly tuned. The RTF model you have is successful as you have proven, to teach you to fly. The OS manual will help you learn how to adjust the mixture to have a fast transition. Print
http://manuals.hobbico.com/hca/hcaa17-engine-manual.pdf
The guys you fly with should be able to show you also where the idle (low speed) mixture screw is located. The ears of the fuselage hug that engine, I can't remember when I saw the last Nexstar is access to the idle screw is easy to get to, but you'll need a very small flat head screwdriver and adjust it 1/8 turn at a time to get a better transition. More common on these is a rich setting from the factory, as you broke in the engine by now, a leaner mixture will clear up the issue with the engine dying on you if throttled back for a time. Turn the screw clockwise for a leaner mixture, counter-clockwise for a richer mixture, just a bit at a time, and throttle it up and down and see if you have improved from the last setting. It's best do cut the engine when making adjustments to keep clear of that moving prop, saves you losing a finger or lots of flesh!
Should you crack up the plane, the wing is designed to break away from the fuselage. Balsa wood planes are very easy to fix.
Finally, the idea with landing as I was taught, is as follows:
Cut throttle before your last turn, killing air speed as you make the last two turns, and now, approach the run way with neutral stick positions. As the plane slows down, the plane will descend on its on at a safe rate. The last 50 feet altitude, some up elevator will be needed to keep the plane level, and slow your descent, as well as your air speed. The idea is is to make gradual changes giving more UP elevator, until you can have full up elevator JUST as the plane touches down! The plane can land faster than this method, but you make continue to bend that nose gear, bounce, or nose over if you come in too fast. I remember so many times guys using a glossary of terms I wasn't familiar with, shouting "flare it, flare it!" and I had no idea what they hell they were asking me to do. Flare it means give it more up, to reduce the rate of descent. I liked and still like doing that just a few feet off the ground, and most planes I fly today like a faster landing speed to avoid loss of control from slowing too much.
Start checking the plane as the tail section is bolted on, to be sure your screws are tight on the model. It's personal preference, but some 5 minute epoxy on the rudder and rear stabilizer will help secure that tail to remain intact for the life of the model.
In a few weeks you'll be progressing to the point you'll be ready for your next plane! MANY low wing advanced trainers are on the market to choose from, that give you still faster flight, landings, and more aerobatic capability. Personally I'd hang on to that engine and move it into your next .46 size ARF model, as the engine can last a decade or more with proper care and tuning.
The oil in your fuel is the only lubrication the engine gets. A proper mixture is a balance between it running with maximum performance, (lean) and keeping it cool (rich). This engine has no piston ring, so it's very forgiving should you fly too lean. Again at your field, a guy should be also teaching you the pinch method of the fuel line to listen for the rpm to momentarily increase, so you're aware that your engine is about to take off with the right mixture. Tuning is a great part of the hobby. Some even like building these from kits for several days to get more pleasure from their maiden flight. I'd wear this plane out, and move the servos, receiver, engine, to the next model, saving you a lot of money in the process.
Check out towerhobbies.com for free shipping, and do a "40 ARF" search to see the inventory.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...+arf&search=Go
A popular choice among others, is this
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11213467/tm.htm
If winter starts soon and ends your flying until spring, maybe select a "kit" rather than an ARF? You'll really enjoy it.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYXF7&P=7