ORIGINAL: JohnnyDanger
Im definitely open to going with Nitro. I just always thought electric would be easier. That way If I want to run my car I can always count on having a battery. I wont ever need to run out and get fuel.
ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM
ORIGINAL: JohnnyDanger
You said there are batteries for about $22 a piece. Can you share a link to those batteries? I will go with the 2 2S route if they cost that much. Also, if I were to get 2S batteries, could I use the same charger to posted a link to?
The other thing Im thinking is this, are there any ready to go kits/packages out there? One that will come with a good started car/truck/buggy, battery, charger and everything else needed? I think that might be the best if it exist that way I can make sure everything I get will work with eachother.
only things that come in one box is sub standard gear. Most RTR's the battery is only sufficient enough to make it move for a few minutes so the company can claim its ready to run out of the box. The wall chargers the average RTR includes are complete trash (that from me end up straight there), and the batteries honestly last 5 mins (off an 8 hour charge with the included charger... just to point out how junky they are)
as the the $22 a pack batteries(hmm they went up to $24 since I bought em) dunno how they would work in that RC. I've used them in my truggy with no issues
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=14991 that place also sells a pile of other low cost batteries, just make sure you select usa warehouse or shipping gets ridiculously high(well its not ridiculous due to how hazardous most shippers list lipos now which increased shipping cost)
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...Lipo_Pack.html doesn't look bad wither if you want the 1 battery approach. Just note 95% chance you will either have to change the plug on either the RC, or the battery by soldering a new one on.
Here's another tip if buying from hobbyking don't add it to your cart immediately if you leave the window open on the item you want to purchase the price will drop as a ''one time offer'' like on the 4S battery the price came down $2 in the time it took me to type this reply lol
Thanks for those links. Im looking at that 4S battery as a possibility. I also have to check the prices at my local hobby store. My concern is what you said about the soldering a new plug. Why would that need to happen? I have soldered in the past, but I wouldnt say Im great at it so that worries me a little.
Oh, and I was readying about LiPo explosions, then I got kind of freaked out. lol. Is that something that I really have to worry about?
only if you don't follow proper safety precautions.
here's a quick summery of every lipo fires I've read about
1. Fast charging the battery as the wrong type (charging a 2S as a 3S etc...) and walking away leaving it unattended
2 charging a damaged battery that you can clearly tell was a goner
3 stabbed the battery
4 putting lipo on charge then going to bed while lipo was in RC
5 charging an over discharged lipo unattended
6 putting a nail (or bullet) into the battery (and yes people have done this look on youtube)
Basically if you follow proper safety precautions, and don't try and be cheap saving a lipo that s swelling lipo its pretty safe.
Me I charge my lipos in a lipo bag that sits in an ammo box I picked up from a army surplus store as if they ever do go up I can just slam the lid to smother the fire out. I also store them in it so if they ever go up there will be no damage. I saw a video where they purposely blew a lipo up in a box and the box didn't even hit 100 degrees before it was smothered out.
Reason to solder a new plug its cause there are 7 common plug types, and generally people will choose one for all their models and convert them all over to the one. Makes it hard for battery companies to supply a certain plug.
Traxxas, Deans, EC3, JST, Tamiya, HTX, and bullet connectors. are the ones I know of and dealt with (there are probably more).
Traxxas are ok, but can be a pain to solder 8 AWG wires to. I use them mainly cause I got big fingers and found deans too small to comfortably grip when separating the battery
Deans very popular plug is a tad small which makes it ideal for some situations
EC3 I find are extremely easy to solder, and offer good current flow. Honestly if I knew of these prior to the traxxas connector I'd be using these instead
JST are for smaller RC's so unless you look at the under 1/18th scale RC's you won't see em
Tamiya seen mainly on brushed ESC's, and NiMh batteries in RTR's not fit for use on modern RC's as they heat up and melt due to their high resistance.
HTX are essentially bullet connectors in a housing (similar to EC3) they came about cause the battery companies don't want to pay for EC3 as EC3's are proprietary
Bullet connectors are easier to assemble than EC3, but unlike EC3 you can plug em in backwards
As for nitro the buggy JohnP2 recommended is probably the best RTR nitro you can get under $400.