Well,

in the resurrection of a thread, some pictures and posts are usually required so here's where I'm at.

I managed to get the first of two fins and rudders framed up. The first picture shows my modified "flat base" Tipo vertical design which will integrate seamlessly into the new CAD design I've made of the model. The new Nanorare, which in retrospect I'm glad I waited to build, will be of a full fuse CAD design and much lighter in construction than the original. Wing and stab will follow the foam core design and the model is designed around the available cores from Don at Eureka who took up the mantle with my scaled Tipo idea making cores available for each size. I no longer have any of the cores I originally cut except for those I plan to build.

I will be building two models, as I originally intended when I started the thread. I've decided to focus on Webra instead of OS power as the engines are shorter, much lighter and are power houses on pipes. I have a Speed 32 as well as a 36 GT on its way to me as options. All Webra's from 25's to 36's use the same small crankcase and are roughly the same in weight. The 32's are actually a tad lighter than the 25's as their sleeves are thinner. I discovered this to also be true with the Webra 50's which are built into 40 size cases and also have thinner sleeves.

The second picture shows the frame, rib and gusset parts to frame up the vertical. I cut parts for two verticals and am scratching them as a trial to see how I found the build process which is always a little delicate with a framed up small "ribbed" part like this. Third picture shows how I went about getting the angles right and insuring I would build a straight fin. I basically glued the fin TE vertically and centered on to the new fin post which extends down along the rear of the fuse sides. I then glued the rear bottom gusset to the fin base rib. By joining this to the fin TE and fin post, I ended up with the correct rake for the fin/rudder hinge line. I then added the top rib along with the fin sub-LE and remaining two gussets to create a frame using center lines on everything to insure I was plumb and symmetric. Satisfied with that, I added the 1/16" fin sheeting to one side to partly lock the frame in place. To complete the fin frame, I added the middle rib and sheeting to the other side. Sanded everything smooth and then marked, cut, glued and sanded the 2 x 1/4" soft balsa LE.

While that was drying, I ripped a couple of strips of 3/32" balsa 3/8" wide and glued them together to form a 3/16" x 3/8" stiff strip. This would form the "rib" structure for the rudder following the original design which works and is light. Basically you add a couple of these strips along the top and bottom of the rudder sheeting, then a strip along the hinge line and finally a third rib in the middle as well as a little doubler piece where the control horn will go to provide some material. Wait for everything to dry, sand the ribs to a sharp edge at the rudder TE and add the right side sheeting to the assembly. Once dry, you can sand it even and round off the base.

I need to add a little 1/16" cap to both the rudder and fin top as I sanded the rudder to fin top line rather than sanding the fin to rudder top line. The cap on the top of the rudder is nice anyway. Once that is leveled, I can add the fin tip which will consist of a 1/8" lite ply base topped with 1/4" balsa sanded to contour. Lastly, the fin tip and rudder TE will have a strip of 3/32" HW added and sanded to foil to protect the TE.

I'll frame up the other vertical, finish them both up and then move on to the stabs and wings while I wait for the laser cut fuses to come in. Both models will have electric trike retracts and approximately 700W of power each - whether electric or piped glow. Props will be 9x5, 9x6 turning in the 14-15K range.

All fin parts were cut from scrap wood from my laser cut Dirty Birdy kit.

David