Take out the droop screws for off road running (buggies, truggies, 1/10th and 1/8th), limiting droop for bashing just limits the suspension travel for zero benefit, especially if the car also has ARBs, which provide almost the same effect as limiting droop.

If you are racing, ask the folks at the track, nobody online can tell you what works at a track unless they also run there.

Here's a scenario to visualize...

RC car 1 has no droop screws, his car is easier to drive as his suspension articulates adequately for every variation in the surface, he may not break the lap record with his setup, but he is not 'compromised' in any way.

RC car 2 has a very small amount of droop. The driver of RC car 2 must be very careful to take a consistent route around the track which agrees with his low droop settings, if he hits the burms at a funny angle, he's going to be ALL OVER THE PLACE, as his suspension cannot articulate enough to save him. On the flip side though, he can corner faster, as his car's CoG is sucked lower by the lack of suspension articulation as the outside shock compresses (the chassis is sucked down to the dirt), but he will only corner faster than the other guy assuming all other things are equal. If the guy running zero droop has better shock oil and springs for the track, the less droop is not going to help car 2 catch up.

Basically, to realise the benefits of running little droop off road, you have to know your surface very well, and be a very good driver. If you are not at least a club level racer, you will gain NOTHING by limiting droop.

A lot of racers also run zero droop, regardless of surface, they just prefer the stability, you can count me among them (retired, for now).

I realize this doesn't exactly answer the specific questions you had, just a bit of background on droop to help you make the decision.