OK, let's get to tuning. Note that this was written ro a pure glider to be launched from a hi-start or a winch. So, right up to the discussion about the tow hook this still applies to you.
<div>PREFLIGHT AND TEST FLIGHT PROCEDURES FOR GLIDERS</div><div>by Ed Anderson</div><div>aeajr on the forums</div><div> </div><div>Here are some quick tips and a "check sheet" for preparing your glider for</div><div>launch. If you are a new pilot, you really need to heed the wind cautions.</div><div>If you are experienced, use your own judgment.</div><div> </div><div>Here is how you prepare for your first flights. Skip a step and you open</div><div>yourself to problems.</div><div> </div><div>Be sure to balance the plane to the suggested point. If you don't have a</div><div>reference setting from planes or a guide, then try balancing on the main</div><div>spar as a starting point. Another reference point is 35% back from the </div><div>front of</div><div>the wing at the root. It is more complex than that, but it will give you a</div><div>starting point.</div><div> </div><div>Gordy's Balancing System</div><div>http://www.flyesl.org/forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=255</div><div> </div><div>It is better to be a "little" nose heavy than tail heavy on your first test</div><div>flight. A nose heavy plane is more stable so you have a better chance of</div><div>a smooth first flight session. But stable is not your goal, it is proper </div><div>balance.
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However, as you gain experience with the plane, plan to move the CG back.</div><div>This is a process you want to do slowly. The plane will be more sensitive</div><div>to lift with a more rearward CG, BUT, it will also be less stable. You have</div><div>to find that happy point and there is no magic formula. What works for you</div><div>is what works.</div><div> </div><div>Respect the wind - For new pilots, dead calm to 2 MPH is perfect. No more</div><div>than 5 MPH for your first test glides and early/training flights or you will</div><div>be fighting the wind, not flying the plane.</div><div>(guess how I know)</div><div> </div><div>AT THE FIELD</div><div> </div><div>1) If you are flying 72 MHz, make sure no one is on your channel BEFORE</div><div>you turn on your radio. Remember 72 MHz needs frequency control.</div><div> </div><div>2) Do a range check before the first launch of the day or after a hard</div><div>landing.</div><div> </div><div>3) Make sure that battery is fully charged just before the launch. Not 3</div><div>days ago. Not last week. Last night or today! And make sure it can't move!</div><div> </div><div>4) Make sure all your surfaces are properly aligned and move properly before</div><div>you launch. Right rudder goes right and up elevator goes up, etc. Check</div><div>that surfaces are properly aligned. Also make sure your wing is straight!</div><div> </div><div>5) CHECK THE TRIMS! Check the trim slides on the side and below the</div><div>stick(s).</div><div>Be sure you have not bumped one out of position. A bumped trim can cause</div><div>the plane to crash. (guess how I know).</div><div> </div><div>6) Always launch and land into the wind. ALWAYS!!!!</div><div> </div><div>7) For hand launches - good firm LEVEL throw - not up. Never</div><div>throw the plane upward on a test glide as it will most likely stall, nose</div><div>down and crash.</div><div> </div><div>Video of a hand launch test flight</div><div>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixwur8lakBM&feature=related</div><div> </div><div>8) Let it fly straight out (no power on e-gliders also) - the fist few times</div><div>and see if it goes straight and level. Try not to use the controls unless</div><div>you have to. If it is balanced correctly, and your surfaces are trimmed it</div><div>should glide straight and flat for about 75 to 150+ feet. If it does not,</div><div>you have some balancing or trim to adjust.</div><div> </div><div>The first time I bring a plane to the field I might do 10-15 test glides,</div><div>evaluating and adjusting then testing again. Only when I am happy that the</div><div>plane glides straight and flat will I launch it. If it is going to miss</div><div>behave I want to see it at 4 feet not 40 or 400.</div><div> </div><div> </div><div>IF THIS IS YOUR FIRST FLIGHT AND YOU ARE LEARNING ON YOUR OWN</div><div> </div><div>If you are learning to use a hi-start on your own, consult this article on</div><div>learning to use a hi-start:</div><div>http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=216</div><div> </div><div>My suggestion is to make your first few hi-start launches purely test and</div><div>trim</div><div>launches Launch and spend your time testing the behavior of the plane.</div><div>Avoid</div><div>thermals until you are sure of your plane. Land after a short time and see</div><div>how it lands. Do several launch and land drills to get to know the plane.</div><div> </div><div>If you have a standard radio, or a radio with mechanical trims, you should</div><div>try to trim the plane so that your trim slides will be centered when you</div><div>fly. It makes it easier to have the radio right before you fly. If you</div><div>have a computer radio with digital trim buttons, this is still a best</div><div>practice, but less of an issue as the radio will set your trims where you</div><div>last saved them.</div><div> </div><div>If you can locate some tall grass to do your first glides, that is a real</div><div>bonus. Naturally your plane will fly perfectly the first time you glide it,</div><div>but if something is out of trim, the tall grass will help cushion the plane</div><div>if it hits hard. I always go to the tall grass to do first glides of a new</div><div>plane, or a newly repaired plane</div><div> </div><div> </div><div>Full Launch</div><div> </div><div>After this, I go for a full launch, but I am not done yet.</div><div> </div><div>Now I test how the plane lands. This is more of training for me. So I</div><div>launch, fly two circuits around the field, then land. I may do this 10-15</div><div>times until I can land the plane, reasonably reliably where I want it to</div><div>land.</div><div> </div><div>If I have a landing mix set-up, here is where I test it. I test the landing</div><div>mix at 100 feet to see what the plane will do. If it stalls or dives, I</div><div>will have time to correct. If I do this at 10 feet the first time, I may</div><div>not recover in time to save the plane. Only when I have tuned the landing</div><div>mix will I use it near the ground.</div><div> </div><div>I worry less about where I am going to land than that I can make a safe</div><div>landing. There is no walk of shame while testing. Protect the plane, not</div><div>your ego.</div><div> </div><div>Once I have done all these things, which might take hours, then and only</div><div>then would I go for a full flight. Many will say this is over kill. I am</div><div>only</div><div>sharing what I do. I feel it is better to spend the time to tune and learn</div><div>than to risk the plane or the repair bench. I want to know the plane is</div><div>right</div><div>before I send it out hunting.</div><div> </div><div>Clear Skies and Safe Flying!</div><div> </div><div>OTHER RESOURCES</div><div> </div><div>Welcome to the Novice Lounge</div><div>http://forums.flyesl.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=224</div><div> </div><div>CG Location by Mark Drela</div><div>http://polecataero.com/articles/cg-location</div><div> </div><div>
Performance Tuning for Gliders</div><div>http://www.radiocarbonart.com/Pages/perftunemain.html</div><div>
This is a fantastic video that everyone should get! It is from Radio Carbon</div><div>
Art, a company that makes RC Soaring videos. I have several of</div><div>
them and they are all excellent.</div>